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  • Drew's DIY Water/Meth Thread

    So since I've gone boost I figured I'd need something to get my charge temps down. Obviously intercooling is in the works but I wanted more. Ripley suggested water/meth injection and I looked into it to find it:
    • Drastically lowered charge temps
    • Steam Cleaned your pistons and cylinders
    • Created even more pressure to push those cylinders down


    I looked at a few kits from Devil's Own and Flying Miata but they ranged from 4-800 and I figured since it's just a few simple things I could build one myself.

    So I did!

    If you choose to do this I recommend checking out http://www.turbomirage.com/water.html

    My system is based on theirs with a few add ons. Either way most of the parts I used are from that site so if you're wondering about anything you see in my writup check there for the part number.

    So here's the basic idea:


    It's pretty simple when you get down to it. The water comes from the reservoir (I used my windshield washer tank but keep in mind if you go this route that the washer tank isn't very large so expect to refill every 4-6 days depending on how often you have the system activated) into the pump, past the water solenoid, through the nozzle, and into your intake. Obviously you'll want to rig up a way to have it turn on automatically and for that the relay and the pressure switch work fine.

    In addition to those plans I installed a tank level meter to make sure I don't run out, a master switch so I can kill it if something goes wrong, and an LED to let me know when it's pumping.

    On with the pictures!
    Last edited by Dr.Drew; 04-16-2010, 08:08 PM.
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  • #2
    The first thing I did was delete my charcoal canister. I wanted my entire system under the hood and that was the only place where the pump would fit. With it removed I installed the pump (upside down to help with the gravity feed from the reservoir.


    Then I ran the hose (3/4 fuel line) from reservoir, to pump, to the water solenoid. This bit ensures no water can be sucked through the system when you don't want it to be. To keep it simple just wire it with the power for the pump so you can ensure they're both on.


    Then I ran the hose from the solenoid to the actual nozzle but first I had to put it together. Remember to use plenty of teflon tape when doing so to ensure a water tight seal. Also, because of the pretapped port in the dummy throttle I didn't use the nozzle recommended on the site. That nozzle is great to mount from the inside but if you need to mount from the outside you can find a good unit from Devil's Own.


    Next was to install the nozzle into the intake. I chose to use a pre-tapped 1/8 NPT hole that was in the dummy throttle body. Obviously if this won't work for you try anywhere before the throttle body. But make sure that you place it AFTER the IAT sensor!
    Last edited by Dr.Drew; 04-17-2010, 09:08 AM.
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    • #3
      Sweet, so now all my hoses are hooked up and water is ready to flow. To handle the wiring just follow the instructions on the site and it's pretty straight forward. With this setup the system will only activate under a certain PSI with the car on. That's the purpose of the relay. Pay attention to the wiring diagram in the first post to ensure you wire it correctly. Then wrap it in some electrical tape and tuck it under the fender.

      But to get the psi right you'll need to adjust your pressure switch. First make you your wiring is right as one terminal closes under boost while the other opens. When it's hooked up attach a bicycle pump with a pressure gauge to your vacuum hose and pump till the system activates (do this with the hose unattached from the nozzle so you're not pumping water into the intake with the engine off!!!!)

      Now you can adjust the switch with an allen wrench till the system turns on at the desired boost. Loosening the allen bolt lowers the boost threshold and vice versa. Just start high and work your way down. You want it on at WOT and maybe a little below.


      Finally I also wired an LED for the low tank sensor. I made sure to get the brightest one I could find for this and believe me it IS bright!! I wanted to make sure that even in the sun with the top down I would know. The only irratiting thing is during fast cornering it will flash if the water sloshes around but I'll live.


      A Master Switch so I can shut the whole thing down. Notice I use a switch with an LED. I want to KNOW when my system is activated; not pounding on a switch at full boost trying to activate the system.


      And a second LED wired in with the pump's power to let me know that it's on:


      And voila!! Now I have water meth. If you have any questions let me know and hopefully I can answer them!
      Last edited by Dr.Drew; 04-15-2010, 08:49 PM.
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      • #4
        Good job!!! :clap:

        Originally posted by miata5620
        Eric's Garage ... You buy all the parts I tell you to and you will have a killer car... If you want other parts used your car will suck and it will cost you more...

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        • #5
          Re: Drew's DIY Water/Meth Thread

          Thank you sir.

          I wanted to add that my total cost on this install came to ~$180.00 in case anyone was wondering. That makes it about half the price of the cheapest kit I could find.

          Total install time came to 5 hours including test drives, rides to the parts store, and tuning the pressure switch.
          Last edited by Dr.Drew; 04-17-2010, 12:39 PM.
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          • #6
            would this be useful on a NA NA...like naturally aspirated NA miata? or would it only make since to use on a boosted setup..and what exactly does water/meth do? like...obviously its water, and ...METH??? like the drug?...i mean...idk

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            • #7
              Methanol-Like the alcohol..
              Nice job,You guys make me feel like I dont do anything to my car.
              (G)
              I make Stuff....shiny,Metal Stuff.

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              • #8
                Re: Drew's DIY Water/Meth Thread

                On a naturally aspirated car it wouldn't do much. The biggest advantage is cooling down the air charge and cylinder. This prevents knock and detonation so you can dial in more timing for more power. An NA car doesn't make high enough intake temps to warrant it.

                Come on G! With your skills and resources you could make a kit that destroys mine.
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                • #9
                  You might need it if you ran a very high comp. ratio with mad spark advance.
                  I'm cuurently putting the finishing touches on my turbo kit,making alot of small parts.It just feels like Im making no progress toward getting a running car is all.You are gilding the Lily so to speak.Looks really nice.
                  (G)
                  I make Stuff....shiny,Metal Stuff.

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                  • #10
                    oh okay..well can you go check my other thread i got some q's bout boost. [ame="http://www.mx5atlanta.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7646"]Turbo VS Super Charging - MX5 Miata Atlanta Owners Club[/ame]

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                    • #11
                      :clap: Hell yeah Drew! That's impressive my friend, its always nice to show off your car, and say stuff like "yeah, I made that." Unfortunately, the only thing I can so so far is, "see the front bumper there, notice the driver side has a bigger gap? That's because I hit a parking curb when I pulled too far forward!" and then I shake the bumper to show how bad it really is :lol:, it actually looks fine, but I still know I hit a damn curb. But seriously, congrats dude, looks awesome!
                      sigpic
                      No matter how many friends you think you have, the size of your funeral will depend on the weather.
                      Originally posted by sharkythesharkdogg
                      I don't want some dude's balls on my neck while I'm yelling at some Vietnamese guy.

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                      • #12
                        Very nicely done. The only issue I could see with it is the actual nozzle spraying perpendicular to the direction of air flow. I've always been under the impression that ideally, you should have the nozzle pointing in the direction of the airflow. Additionally, your nozzle is aiming the spray directly into the wall on the inside of the dummy t/b. While I understand the hot, pressurized air rushing by will probably catch most of the spray, I can't help but imagine that a lot of it will be hitting the inside wall of the t/b and running down into the manifold as a liquid. Granted, I'm going off the experience I had using a similar setup in my Mirage.

                        Or am I missing something and you mounted the nozzle inside the dummy T/B?
                        1991 UK-spec MX-5 - https://www.facebook.com/djinovaband <<< METAL!

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                        • #13
                          Re: Drew's DIY Water/Meth Thread

                          That's a good point and something I considered but all the instructions I found said to mount between 90 and 45 degrees. I also noticed that I have a VERY fine mist coming from the nozzle and I doubt there's enough velocity there to push past the intake air.

                          It is possible though and something to consider when I get my intercooler and possibly re-mount the system.
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                          • #14
                            Wow dude this is amazing. I may want to copy this one day. Especially since I have a very similar setup only with a different blower. Very cool.
                            2013 Whitout FR-S
                            1988 LS1 rx7 convertible
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                            • #15
                              Had you ever thought of 4 port WI?Just a Thought...
                              (G)
                              I make Stuff....shiny,Metal Stuff.

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