Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Any thoughts on parts I'm looking to add...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Any thoughts on parts I'm looking to add...

    I just got a 94 Miata. The shocks that are on it are original, from 1994. Needless to say, I'm ready for an upgrade, along with replacing the stock wheels as well. If anyone has any opinions, critiques, or recommendations, I'm open to all. I'll mention that my car will be 99.99% road use. I'm not planning on taking it to the track or autox, I just got it as a weekend fun car. I might drive it on a track just for the experience in the future, but no plans to do that for now.
    For wheels, I'm looking at the Advanti Storm S1 in 15x7. I'd like to put 195 tires on. I'm still looking at what tires to go with, I'm leaning towards Toyo Proxes, but I'd love to hear some recommendations for Georgia driving.

    I'd like to install some coilovers. As much as I'd love to put Xidas or some other super premium coilovers on the car...I really don't need them. I want something that will feel good and perform well on the road. I've been trying to read up on recommended coilovers, but it seems like every thread on the internet is started by someone who wants to slam their cars while tearing up the track.:rolleyes: I don't really want to lower the car very much unless for performance improvement, and from what I've read, Mazda set the height rather well. I'm much more interested in maximizing (street) performance and enjoyment than looking a certain way.
    Based on what I've been able to read up on, I'm looking that Flyin Miata's V-Maxx Classic Stage 2 Suspension kit. Realistically, I don't need adjustable dampening. However, the classics are on backorder, and the xxtreme (adjustable dampening) are not, so I'm debating if I'd be happier adjusting the default settings on the xxtreme (which are same as classic) to something a little softer for the road if I had the option. For just a $200 price difference, I'm thinking it might be worth it just to spend a little more and have more tweakability. Is the $200 difference worth it for a road car?
    "Thank God Poot was there, with his considerable skills!" - Ron White

  • #2
    Based on what you wrote, just stay with off the shelf performance shocks. If you want to lower the car a little, use springs. Coilovers are not what you are looking for. Personally, in your shoes, I would install Bilsteins and a quality, reputable aftermarket spring, get an alignment, call it a day. That "tweakability" is not worth it for a roadcar you describe. I do not have a favorable opinion of FM's coilovers, their lowering springs are nice, though.

    For tires, are you looking for longevity, good rain performance, etc? How many miles do you drive/year? I have put a couple different sets of BF Goodrich on my wife's Miata in the past and been very happy with them.

    Comment


    • #3
      I have a set of Bilsteins with H&R springs and NB top mounts available. :) :) :)
      sigpic

      Comment


      • #4
        Welcome to the Miata club. It's very exclusive! :lol:

        My $.02 -

        Tires - Grippiest to Less Grippy:
        BFG Rivals are a good buy for excellent summer performance. Yes they wear a bit faster than other tires but they feel good on the street and will hold up if you get the bug to mountain runs, track or auto x. Turn is is very responsive.

        BFG Sport Comp 2 are pretty good, wear well and have good wet grip. They would last a few HPDE events back when I was new. Now they would not survive an event.

        Yokohama S Drive - Probably my favorite non-track tire. Similar to the BFG Sport Comp 2 but I'd lean toward these if I had to do it again. I think they wore more quickly than expected but still good life and definitely longer than the Rivals. I have had many sets of the Yoko S Drives.

        Shocks -
        I've had everything from stock NA & NB shocks to FatCat revalved Bilstines w/ MSM springs to the FM VMaxxx Track setup you're looking at.

        For 100% street, don't go with the FM. Too harsh unless you want to feel like a race driver. If I was doing to again I'd go with the Tein setup NickT93 just sold. Not sure what model they were but I caught a ride with Joe G who bought them and his car felt GREAT. The Fat Cat revalved Bilsteins were very good (much better than stock Bilsteins). Sporty but not harsh. They come up here every so often, but off the shelf I'd go with the Teins. I'm sure Nick can tell you exactly which ones he had.
        sigpic
        Current: 1994 Merlot (Turbo) Sold: Red '02 Turbo | 2010 - 2015 ~~~ 987 Boxster | 2012-2014 ~~~ Z4 ///M Roadster | 2015 - 2015 ~~~ Z4 3.0i (18k miles!)| 2018-2018 ~~~ 2006 Miata (Laci) | one track day ~~~ Exocet (Turbo!) | 2015-2019

        Comment


        • #5
          I think an adjustable shock with a decent spring (FM) plus a set of the FM adjustable swaybars would be a good start. I always like to recycle when possible, so if I were in your shoes I'd strongly consider metalman's bilstein setup. I think you can be less picky about tires, and I would be looking at a 185/55 or 195/50 summer (or grippy all-season) tire for those 15x7's you want. If you go too sticky, you won't have as much fun on the street since you'll have to be going quite fast to get the car to slide.

          Don't forget the exhaust....it's no fun driving around in silence. A shifter rebuild kit is probably also a good idea.
          2018 Forester 2.5i 6MT
          2017 NV3500

          Comment


          • #6
            Shocks & springs will be just fine for a road car. A shifter rebuild is a good suggestion from eyeballs as well. Don't forget to clean your rain drains: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...C_hK61rmvFmoDw

            2013 NC MX5 Club - Build Thread ~ 2017 VW Golf R ~ IG: DroptopDestron
            1997 M *SOLD - Build Thread ~ 1995 Laguna Turbo 281whp *SOLD - Build Thread ~ 1992 Black & Tan *SOLD

            Comment


            • #7
              I tell a lot of new Miata onwers the same, so please take this for what it is worth...start small on the mods, buy what you would REALLY use or appreciate. A lot of those can be found second hand in near-new condition. The best advice is to spend your money to 'reset' the maintenance. You car is already 22 years old. Look at the records, if available, compare them to what the recommended maintenance is, fill in the gaps. It will give reliability and a clean base if anything should happen to go wrong in the future. These are stout, reliable cars, very forgiving to deferred maintenance. However, the age and exposure the systems see (because convertible) can compound issues. Do yourself a favor, and get the maintenance completed. It's not sexy, I know, but that $500 in mods can sure go a long way in maintenance to keep your car on the road and off the back of a tow truck. :)

              Comment


              • #8
                I would go with at least a 205 tire on a 15x7.5 or 15x8. In fact, I doubt that the selection of 'good' tires is all that great in a 195.

                Maaxis VR-1 is my new favorite, and is reasonably priced. Plus you can will call pickup at their distribution center in Suwanee and not pay shipping. This is a great tire with sharp turn-in that works well over a broad temperature spectrum, and has very good longevity. These are almost as fast as Rival S, but wear much better.

                Suspension is a can of worms. Keep in mind that springs, shocks, bump stops, and sway bars need to be considered a system, and you make changes with the whole package in mind. You can get great results with middle of the road parts if you pick and chose wisely.
                DIYAutoTune.com

                | 10AE-T | BEGi S4 | GT2560r | Enthuza | 6UL | MS3Pro PNP|
                | 2001 Track Rat | Enthuza | Jenvey | MS3Pro PNP | Exocet in Progress|
                | 1992 323 | Wrong-wheel-drive Miata Endurance Racecar|

                Comment


                • #9
                  Not bad tire and wheel advice, but be aware of offset on wider wheels and tires because you and cut them with the fender lips under hard cornering or braking. The wheels that came with my car were 15x7.5 +35. I added springs went to a 205/50-15 and the tires would slice on the fender lips and pull the metal down, flaking the paint. This was while autocrossing a few times or really getting at it on back roads. You can run aggressive wheel tire combos, but be prepared to roll the fender lips and trim the fender liners.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That size would have no fender contact. I'm thinking your offset was lower than that. I have a parking lot full of Miatas on 8" wheels that don't hit fenders. There have to be thousands of Miatas running 15x7 & 15x8 wheels in the +36 offset range without fender issues. I've ran bigger without issue. In fact, I had clearance issues on the *inside* before issues on the outside.
                    Last edited by ben91; 12-28-2016, 05:42 PM.
                    DIYAutoTune.com

                    | 10AE-T | BEGi S4 | GT2560r | Enthuza | 6UL | MS3Pro PNP|
                    | 2001 Track Rat | Enthuza | Jenvey | MS3Pro PNP | Exocet in Progress|
                    | 1992 323 | Wrong-wheel-drive Miata Endurance Racecar|

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Awesome responses, thanks y'all!

                      Based on what you wrote, just stay with off the shelf performance shocks. If you want to lower the car a little, use springs. Coilovers are not what you are looking for. Personally, in your shoes, I would install Bilsteins and a quality, reputable aftermarket spring, get an alignment, call it a day.
                      One thing I can't quite get a straight forward answer to: why would I want springs/shocks vs coilovers? Looking at FM website (and other merchants) it seems like a set of springs with performance shocks costs the same (if not more) than a set of coilovers. Yet at all the threads I'm looking at (except this one) people are saying if you have a choice between the two, coilovers is the way to go. Is this just because most people discussing it are also planning on doing some kind of track/autox? I'm not trying to argue one way or the other, just to better understand.


                      I think an adjustable shock with a decent spring (FM) plus a set of the FM adjustable swaybars would be a good start.
                      So when I compare the suspension package for FM springs with shocks vs V-maxx coilovers, the price is virtually the same (actually, some spring/shock combos are more expensive).

                      The FM springs + Tokico Illumina shocks with sway bars is $1,199.00
                      The V-Maxx Xxtreme coilovers + sway bars is $1,149.00

                      I guess if I bought FM springs with Bilstein shocks it'd be cheaper? Do I need to match spring rate to shocks if I'm not buying them as a package? :confused: The more I look into suspension choices, the more confused I'm getting. Is a spring+shock combo of a given price going to be "better" than a coilover set up of the same price?

                      Suspension is a can of worms. Keep in mind that springs, shocks, bump stops, and sway bars need to be considered a system, and you make changes with the whole package in mind. You can get great results with middle of the road parts if you pick and chose wisely.
                      Yeah, I'm just looking for a good system to get which has been measured, tested, and put together by people who have a lot more knowledge than I. I don't know enough to piece together individual pieces and have it come out as well as one that is sold as a package.


                      As far as tire sizes go, based on what I've been reading, I think I'm going to go with 195, among the reasons are the ones that kung fu jesus called out. I also like that 195 are lighter, and have better "steering precision" (I know the noticeable difference is probably negligible to me). If I end up increasing HP, I'll move up to 205's, but for the little my car has now, I think I'll be happier with 195. I'm still open to opinions, though.
                      As far as what I'm looking for in a tire, I'd like something that will hold up decently well, but I'm open to sacrificing a bit of life if there are significant performance differences. I don't need something super sticky that is intended to be replaced after one or a few track days. I guess what I'm looking for is something a little more geared towards performance, but isn't so much so that they'll need to be replaced very often. The miata isn't a DD, so it's not going to get a lot of miles per year (I put about 10-12k miles/yr on my DD, so I don't drive a whole lot of miles)

                      Oh, and I'm doing a bunch of the boring maintenance stuff as well, but that's a bit more straight forward. Definitely recognize the value in keeping up with the small stuff.

                      Thanks!
                      Last edited by Poot; 12-28-2016, 05:58 PM.
                      "Thank God Poot was there, with his considerable skills!" - Ron White

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ben91 View Post
                        That size would have no fender contact. I'm thinking your offset was lower than that. I have a parking lot full of Miatas on 8" wheels that don't hit fenders. There have to be thousands of Miatas running 15x7 & 15x8 wheels in the +36 offset range without fender issues. I've ran bigger without issue. In fact, I had clearance issues on the *inside* before issues on the outside.

                        Looking at 15x7 Advanti Racing Storm S1 on good-win-racing, they say this:

                        Tire Size breakdown:
                        195/50/15 fits all years of Miata with no mods.
                        -205/50 fits NB fenders with no mods needed. Fits NA with 1.2 negative camber or better.
                        Last edited by Poot; 12-28-2016, 06:06 PM.
                        "Thank God Poot was there, with his considerable skills!" - Ron White

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          You'll want more negative camber than that. No problem.
                          DIYAutoTune.com

                          | 10AE-T | BEGi S4 | GT2560r | Enthuza | 6UL | MS3Pro PNP|
                          | 2001 Track Rat | Enthuza | Jenvey | MS3Pro PNP | Exocet in Progress|
                          | 1992 323 | Wrong-wheel-drive Miata Endurance Racecar|

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ben, I can assure you that sizing I mentioned is correct. You are welcome to see the cracks and chips in the paint from it. They are now rolled and slightly pulled.

                            I recommended shocks and springs because you made points of the car's use and desire for a softer, streetable ride. Coilovers are wonderful if you plan to use them fully, corner weight the car, adust them for ultimate handling under track or competitive conditions. However, if you damage one your choice is to either repair or replace. Either will include down time and additional expense. Off the shelf shocks are readily available, easy to replace, and are durable. The Bilsteins are remarkably so. Non-adjustable but monotube which has its advantages. Sure, you can get taller and softer springs for coilovers, but if they are outside the damper's parameters, you have a terrible ride and can be back to square one in no time. I also recommended springs/shocks from your tire choice. You aren't looking to push the enelope, you want incremental improvements I gather. I have made a number of mistakes in modifications, gone too far, had to dial back. It's not fun, but a learning experience. Springs/shocks give you room to grow and learn with the car without the additional issues coilovers can bring, then when you feel you can utilize the adjustability of coilovers, you can buy the ones that will suit your needs in a range you can afford. IOW, if you don't know which coilovers are for you, stay with springs and shocks. Keep it simple, you know?

                            For a street car, I think you are playing it smart in tire sizing. 195 or 205 is fine. I prefer a narrower tire for daily use for lighter steering effort, better rain performance, etc. I actually like tiny 14" tires for DD duties because of the taller sidewalls (comfort) and slippy characteristics if I want to have some fun.

                            If you are are moving from a 14" to a 15" tire, remember the shorter sidewall will stiffen the ride a little and increase response a little as well. Tires and wheels are part of the suspension.
                            Last edited by kung fu jesus; 12-28-2016, 06:45 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              What was your alignment?

                              You're talking about a setup that works for thousands...
                              DIYAutoTune.com

                              | 10AE-T | BEGi S4 | GT2560r | Enthuza | 6UL | MS3Pro PNP|
                              | 2001 Track Rat | Enthuza | Jenvey | MS3Pro PNP | Exocet in Progress|
                              | 1992 323 | Wrong-wheel-drive Miata Endurance Racecar|

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X