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  • Originally posted by ben91 View Post
    I guess I'll just push my 94 R-package off a bridge, as no one would buy a Miata without power steering and a/c. :( I'll go advise everyone else with an R or Club Sport to do the same.

    It's just a Miata. Mod it in whatever way you feel is best for you. A typical NA Miata isn't worth more than a few grand, so you literally don't have much to lose.

    I don't know what the 3 horsepower comes from (do you mean drag on an a/c compressor when the mag clutch is not energized?), but 3 hp on 90 hp is 3.3%. I'd call that significant.
    Feel free to push that r-package right off of the bridge and into my driveway :D
    1988 323 GTX--- The toy now :D
    2008 Mazdaspeed 3::SOLD ----- 1991 BRG NA8 Swap, Turbo::SOLD

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    • Well, technically it's only half mine. I'm not sure if that means I can push it only halfway off a bridge, or if I can only push half of it off a bridge. Gonna need to consult with the lawyer right quick.
      DIYAutoTune.com

      | 10AE-T | BEGi S4 | GT2560r | Enthuza | 6UL | MS3Pro PNP|
      | 2001 Track Rat | Enthuza | Jenvey | MS3Pro PNP | Exocet in Progress|
      | 1992 323 | Wrong-wheel-drive Miata Endurance Racecar|

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      • Ben as usual you're arguing about apples and bananas. Your R package is worth more, ahem, because you and a few others, who by the way stayed away in droves when the car was new, feel that extra hard core track crap makes it worth more. Like a BRG or 93 LE, it's worth more because demand exists.

        While there may be a demand for R package cars now (they languished on dealer lots when new), there aren't a lot of folks lining up to buy Miatas without AC and PS. If you're car doesn't have those, about fifty to seventy five percent of potential buyers won't want your car. I've bought and sold more than a dozen Miatas and it's the very first question I'm asked every time. Does the AC work?

        Now you might work at DIY and have lots of time to play with your dyno, but for the average human, 3 whp isn't enough to even be noticed in normal driving. Twenty pounds is significant, but can be found in lots of other places, like going with a lightweight battery. Using a Braille or even lawn tractor battery for track days can lose 20-25 pounds, changing your trunk lid to a fiberglass one can shave ten pounds, those headlamp buckets are steel, going to fiberglass can lose you 8 pounds each, going to Lotus or Porsche 914 seats can garner you improved seating and save 25-30 pounds a side. None of these changes will necessarily be permanent, and more importantly, none will make the car a resale pariah. Dropping the AC and PS nets negligible gains but has very real results on resale. Of course you can hope that Ben will be in the mood to buy another car when you get tired of this one, perhaps he'll be ready to cash that check his big mouth likes to write.
        Red '91, MSM longblock/BEGI-FM hybrid turbo w/2871r/3"Enthuza/Hydra2.7/700cc/Ohlins/
        RacingBrake11"BBK/SS HDDD/Nakamae everything/KGWorks/Zoom/We're done!

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        • That stuff can always be put back in if necessary, just like the cruise control and airbags I've removed. Besides, if I ever do sell this car in one piece I may just leave it as is and sell it as a track car. Unless its a car someone bought just to flip, might as well do what you want to it. As previously mentioned, it's not like they are worth much anyways. Regardless, might as well get this thread back on topic. Or at least in that direction.

          I think with the cam, RB header, and exh, I should be around 130 once I get the ms2 in and tuned. I should probably do something with the intake though. Anyone know how much power is to be had there on an NB1 (currently have NB2 crossover pipe) by removing the MAF and going with a cone filter?
          2018 Forester 2.5i 6MT
          2017 NV3500

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          • If you remove the MAF, you'll make nice gains tuning with a GM MAP (manifold pressure) sensor. The best intakes for the 1.6 typically keep the airbox intact, like the Randall and the Jackson Racing intake, both of which deliver cold air from under high pressure areas, the Randall from the cowl, the JR from the leading edge of the hood. The advantage of the NB intake is that it provides low end torque, which is lost if you just throw a cone filter on there.

            With headers, a great intake, full exhaust and MS2, you're likely looking at more like 120 whp. If you want more, you really need to look at FI or engine swaps. If you're doing your own work, the new Honda V6 swap is hard to beat at $5,000 in parts for 250 ish whp.
            Red '91, MSM longblock/BEGI-FM hybrid turbo w/2871r/3"Enthuza/Hydra2.7/700cc/Ohlins/
            RacingBrake11"BBK/SS HDDD/Nakamae everything/KGWorks/Zoom/We're done!

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            • Originally posted by oldgrayfrog View Post
              If you remove the MAF, you'll make nice gains tuning with a GM MAP (manifold pressure) sensor. The best intakes for the 1.6 typically keep the airbox intact, like the Randall and the Jackson Racing intake, both of which deliver cold air from under high pressure areas, the Randall from the cowl, the JR from the leading edge of the hood. The advantage of the NB intake is that it provides low end torque, which is lost if you just throw a cone filter on there.

              With headers, a great intake, full exhaust and MS2, you're likely looking at more like 120 whp. If you want more, you really need to look at FI or engine swaps. If you're doing your own work, the new Honda V6 swap is hard to beat at $5,000 in parts for 250 ish whp.
              So it begins. HEHE.

              I've only seen a lucky few attain 120whp on a 1.6 without opening it. I'd say 105-110 would be more realistic for what you've listed. I know David(DMN) made 125WHP on an NA 1.8 with header and IRTB and an ok tune.

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              • There were quite few spec Miata 1.6 cars making north of 120 on stock ECUs. Its really not that hard. Early castings are the best for that. I have seen 116-118 with just a head shave and a couple minor tricks too.
                sigpic

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                • Originally posted by metalman View Post
                  There were quite few spec Miata 1.6 cars making north of 120 on stock ECUs. Its really not that hard. Early castings are the best for that. I have seen 116-118 with just a head shave and a couple minor tricks too.
                  ayup
                  "The MX5 has become the Civic/240 hacked turdbucket with a moron driver. Those who owned Miatas in the early 90s or even late 90s are likely much more aware of the magnitude of that change than others who 'discovered' the MX5 more recently of course. "

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                  • Gentlemen I did say without opening the motor... A head shave counts as opening the motor.

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                    • A supercharger would be so much easier...
                      Red '91, MSM longblock/BEGI-FM hybrid turbo w/2871r/3"Enthuza/Hydra2.7/700cc/Ohlins/
                      RacingBrake11"BBK/SS HDDD/Nakamae everything/KGWorks/Zoom/We're done!

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                      • I have one of those somewhere.

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                        • I was telling Harrison last week that I made 100hp with a seizing camshaft.....
                          Slip 'N' Slide

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                          • 1992 NA. Ford V8 with heads, cam, intake, and vortech supercharger at 8 psi.

                            420.29 rwhp, 420.32 rwtq on a dyno jet at MOs speed shop in hiram.
                            1996 white, turbo, 6 speed, Torsen 4.10. Built forged 8.5:1 motor. 345whp at 29 psi on 93

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                            • Way back on 11/14 I had mine dynoed at Dbw motorsports. That place is swank.

                              Whp: 237.3
                              tq: 215.7

                              at 9.5 psi--- now clue what it would make at 12, but this is plenty.
                              sigpic

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                              • Miata Dyno List

                                Here is "Five-o-joe" Dyno chart.

                                1995 Miata in progress

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