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  • Boost Fab (Pic Heavy)

    I have had my car built for a good while, but now it is time for me to take it to the next level! As of now the engine is fully built for hopefully anything I can throw at it (list will be below). I have set the car up for drift, but it is not modified enough and needs a few more custom made parts. Not the best picture, but this is what it looks like from the outside as of now.
    20140727_194113.jpg
    And the engine bay:
    20140707_182533.jpg
    Build list for the engine:
    Supertech 84.0mm 9.5:1 pistons
    Mtune H-beam rods
    ACL main bearings
    ACL rod bearings
    ACL thrust washers
    Boundary 60psi billet chromoly oil pump
    ARP main studs
    ARP head studs
    Supertech 1mm oversized stainless steel intake and exhaust valves
    Supertech shim under bucket lifters
    Flyin' miata valve springs with titanium retainers
    ATI super damper

    I can't find many pictures of the build, but here are a couple
    20130206_195045.jpg
    20130205_201701.jpg
    20130312_195202.jpg

    Fuel is provided from a walbro 255 and flows through a set of injector dynamics 725cc injectors. I have a water/meth injection system that I will be installing as well. I built a DIYPNP from diyautotune which does everything I need, I haven't dyno tuned the car, but it runs strong with the street tuning I have done.

    I have been running a turbonetics t3/t4 turbo on a begi cast manifold and it has done very well! which leads me to the next part. I built turbo manifolds for a company for a while and decided it is finally time to build on for myself. Here is one of them
    20151231_192624.jpg
    20151231_192918.jpg

    I just started building mine and I will document the entire build and try to explain how I am doing things to help others if they want to build their own manifold. I started by bolting the head flange to the engine and the turbo inlet flange to the turbo, I then hung the turbo in the engine bay and took a few measurements so i could make a jig to hold the flanges in place without having the turbo in the way. I will take a picture of the jig and post it up soon.

    After the jig was made I moved onto the collector. I am using 10 degrees as my merge angle to get a nice flow into the turbo with the least amount of turbulence. I am using a jig I had previously built to cut the collector in my band saw.
    20170128_195008.jpg
    20170128_200325.jpg
    20170128_200619.jpg

    After the first cut I zero out a digital level on the cut surface and rotate the piece of tubing 93 degrees. The reason I rotate it 93 rather than 90 is to allow for blade deflection so it gives me a piece that has 90 degrees between the two cut surfaces.
    Here are all four cut and cleaned and then tacked together.
    20170128_215728.jpg
    20170128_235006.jpg

    That's all I have for now, I will work on it some more this weekend and post up the progress.
    If you have any questions or would like to see any specific pictures let me know, I will be more than happy to answer questions and provide pictures!

  • #2
    That collector sir is nice as hell. It is straight up porn.
    Im ThatGuy, you know, the one guy that did that thing that one time.

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    • #3
      Very cool build so far! Can't wait to see your progress.
      '00 Silver Miata

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      • #4
        Here is a picture of the jig that I made to hold the flanges in place, super simple but does the job. It also holds my purge block so I can keep the welds shielded on the inside of the manifold so the inside looks as good as the outside.
        20170201_223403.jpg
        20170201_223412.jpg

        I also tacked the collector to the turbo flange. I cut it so two of the runners are at 90 degrees from the flange, and the others end up at 20 degrees facing away from the engine. This gives me a little more clearance to fit the runners and helps reduce the length of each one.
        20170201_224555.jpg
        20170201_224604.jpg

        I am about to go work on the manifold again, so I will post again tomorrow night.

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        • #5
          Those cuts on the collector look amazing man.
          I'd put this up on mt.net too.

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          • #6
            Thanks for the compliments, hopefully I can get this manifold knocked out and then fab the downpipe. After this is done I will be installing a cage from miatacage.com

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            • #7
              So I wasn't able to get a ton of work done on the manifold last night, but I did get runner 3 and 4 tacked up and welded a couple of joints. Time for the pictures

              Cylinder #3 runner
              20170203_234238.jpg

              Here is my cutting jig for the 90 degree elbows in action. It can be set to cut any angle I need. PRL motorsports makes the jig and it is a super nice piece!
              20170204_005001.jpg

              Cylinder #4 runner tacked up.
              20170204_011112.jpg

              I make parts of the runners to long when I am tacking everything up. This allows for shrinkage and when all the welds are complete everything should line up perfect. Stainless steel warps and moves around a lot when it is welded, the key is to use as little heat as possible to prevent as much warp as possible. The hard part is you need enough heat to get full penetration for a strong weld. Tons of practice and knowing your machine is the only way to get this right.
              20170204_011310.jpg

              Tight fit up is another way to help prevent shrinkage. The weld is what shrinks when it cools, so if there are any gaps in your fit up the runner will be way off when the welds are complete. I taper the ends of the tubes so I don't need as much heat to get full penetration, They are about 1/8 of an inch thick so it takes a good bit to get all the way through.
              20170204_011426.jpg

              This is one of the purge blocks I use when I am welding runners separate from the manifold. I will also use aluminum foil to plug the ends of tubes at times to keep the gas inside the runner. I will do a test piece with and with out gas coverage on the inside of the tube to show why it is needed.
              20170204_012138.jpg

              Did a couple of welds on runner number 4 because I haven't tig welded in about 8 months and wanted to see if I still had it. I think it turned out rather well.
              20170204_013611.jpg

              This is my welding chair. I used to have a set of these seats in a car that I put in a ditch pretty hard one night...twisted the unibody and ended up with six staples in my head, it taught me a good lesson but was not very much fun. Needless to say the seat got cracked and I didn't want to just throw it out, looking at the bright side of things I got a sweet welding chair out of the incident!
              20170204_014922.jpg

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              • #8
                Love how this is coming along. The color and uniformity on those welds are so cool!
                '00 Silver Miata

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                • #9
                  Very nice - where did you pick up the flange from?

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                  • #10
                    Thanks guys! I get my flanges from turbo-flanges.com they are super high quality CNC flanges. I'm not sure if you can see from some of the pictures but the head side is shape of the exhaust port and then transforms to a circle to fit the tube.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      "Did a couple of welds on runner number 4 because I haven't tig welded in about 8 months and wanted to see if I still had it..."

                      Still got it. Great welds man!

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                      • #12
                        Thanks Dan! I took a look at your build thread, it looks like it is coming along well. Hate that you had engine trouble though!

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                        • #13
                          Time for a little update. My original plan was to make this manifold A/C and P/S compatible, but I have decided to go a different direction. I was going to remove the A/C any way, but wanted to keep the P/S, I had removed the A/C in the car I put in a ditch and just ran a shorter belt from the crank to the P/S pump and it worked well. The problem is I need a little extra room for the manifold so I have decided to relocate the P/S pump to where the A/C compressor used to be. If I bolt the rear most bolts from the P/S bracket into one of the lower holes on the block it lines up with the crank, I am thinking about welding some new mounts to the original bracket, but I may end up just making a whole new bracket...we shall see.
                          20170206_195749.jpg
                          20170206_195804.jpg

                          Here is a P/S reservoir I had made a while back. I ended up making three of these before I had a design that worked the way I wanted it to. It has a couple of baffles inside to stop the fluid from aerating and spraying out the top. I will have to do something about the vent hole because it sits right under one of my aerocatch hood pins and ended up filling with water. Suction line is -10AN and the return is -6AN
                          20170206_200002.jpg

                          Had the turbo sitting on the valve cover, so I figured I would post up a pic for size comparison...it's rather large!
                          20170206_195942.jpg

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                          • #14
                            Holy crap that thing is huge.
                            2018 Forester 2.5i 6MT
                            2017 NV3500

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                            • #15
                              Looks great! I wish I had the skills to make my own turbo setup.

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