I wasn't the first person to say it, I think it was Metalman, but the most important consideration when buying a miata is the condition of the body. Why? Because a quality respray will cost you $3000+, but still won't be as valuable as a car with great original paint. Engines can be had for less than $1000, and transmissions for $150, everything just bolts in and out, but body work is the most expensive thing you can do to a miata. If you've decided to buy an NB because you love it, great, but be aware that while NA prices are on the rise, NB prices are still dropping. The only NB I'd consider buying would be an MSM. Those cars are in a sweet spot, having the zenith of development of the original chassis and engine, while reaching a price point that makes them a bargain. A good sub 100,000 mile MSM, is now in the $6000 range. Pretty good for a car that can make 200 whp for just a few hundred dollars in mods.
NA's are an appreciating asset now. As such it behooves you to buy the very best one you can find. Don't get overly hung up on miles, as super low mileage cars come with a host of problems related to having sat for long periods of time. If you can find one with 60-130,000 miles, with good maintenance records and a clean body, that's the one you want. On the low end I'd say expect to pay $3500, while the very best limited editions are getting $8000 plus. A note on the limited editions: Mazda loved making them. Only a very few actually are appreciating any faster than a non LE of the same year. The 91 British Racing Green ( the first LE), and the 93 LE with its black paint, and one year only red interior stand out. Other colors that will cost extra, include the unpopular at the time 92 Sunburst yellow cars, and 94' & 95' only Laguna blue. Mostly the LE's are nice because you know they came with all the options, including the desirable Torsen lsd, after 94', the 90-93's had an available viscous lsd. As a rule if the car has power windows and leather, it also has an lsd. Beware the STO edition, a pretty color, but it's the exception to the LE's having the Torsen, causing some to quip, STO. Stands for some things taken off.
Keep your eyes open here, and ask as you did for help looking into cars you might be interested in. Using the forum to help research prior to purchase is a very smart move that very few people think of. Good luck!
Red '91, MSM longblock/BEGI-FM hybrid turbo w/2871r/3"Enthuza/Hydra2.7/700cc/Ohlins/
RacingBrake11"BBK/SS HDDD/Nakamae everything/KGWorks/Zoom/We're done!