Leaking anti-freeze

[Flash13783]

I'm leaking anti-Freeze looked like it was coming from thermostat housing but it also looked like it was comming from behind the pulleys. so i took off the plastic cover under the head cover and where the timing belt was covered with nasty stuff...oil...grime...possibly antifreeze, but my antifreeze is clean and i dont have a ton oil leaking anywhere is it suppose to be like this or clean? what do i do. the thermostat housing gasket was shot do i just replace it and see what happens or what else do i do.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Sounds like it's time for a water pump and new front main seal as well as the thermostat (replace it too with an OEM, it's cheap). And since you're in there, timing belt and pulleys too.

[Flash13783]

k I replaced thermostat and seal around the housing. Ant-freeze is still dripping all around the two pulleys and the area where the timing belt is.
a lot of it is coming out. What do i do? i really wish i could get someone to look at it that knows what there looking for. There is a ton of oil build up all under the pan and stuff, but the car doesn't seem to be leaking oil.
If i'm doing this i want to get a re build kit too. I dont want anymore problems and i want to turbo it and a 200,000mile engine needs to be sturdy to handle boost, but then again i dont know much about miata's

[Roadster]

There's a gasket where the neck of the thermostat housing bolts to the head, but I don't think you can access that unless you pull the cam gears and backing plate off first. Do those gaskets even leak anyway? Maybe there's a crack in the housing. Hard to really make a diagnosis without seeing it.

[Flash13783]

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e339/HEMIactive/engine.jpg

[metalman]

Hmm..I'd be pulling that apart and checking the water pump.
If the water is coming from above the water pump then I'd be looking at
the t-stat neck. (bottom left of pic)
A head gasket issue is also possible.

[Flash13783]

Thanks yea tomorrow i'll probably be pulling all that off i'm kinda nervous everything i do is a learning expireince and i've already broke the head off one of the screws holding a pulley on, but i'll tap it and just take it step by step


If anyone lives in the dallas/paulding county are and is bored around 1 and wants to stop by and give me some pointers i would be glad to have ya lol

[Flash13783]

So i've decided since in order to fix it i will have to tear down the head anyways. To rebuild the engine. I'm thinking of getting a rebuild kit for $350 with new pistons seals, and gaskets, and getting my heads worked.
Anyone one have any idea as to whether i should get my heads redone or buy new ones? Any places in mind?

[RotorNutFD3S]

Well, 4-cylinders only have one head. ;) And you won't need to tear it down to fix anything coolant leak related, everything that might have an issue is bolted to the outside of the head. Unless you have a bad head gasket, but the car will usually not run well, if at all, with a problem there.

I'd say before you go to the trouble of tearing down your engine (which quickly becomes a VERY expensive job), do leakdown and compression tests. That will give you the information you need to know so that you can figure out what step to take from there. You could have a sturdy engine that just needs a water pump/timing belt job done for all you know.

[Flash13783]

lol i wish i had read this sooner. Today i got the head off and it seemed to be just the water pump with a bunch of minor problems with the cover for it, but the engine does have 200,000 miles and i want to boost it soon and it needs to be in good shape so im going to get the kit and the "head" lol will be worked. You can tell the head gasket has gone out before cause of all the oil build up EVERYWHERE but now i will be starting with a really good base for boost and dont have to worry about old seals and gaskets.

[Flash13783]

I NEED HELP!!!
After checking into this I've figured out I cant do this alone. There's a lot of little stuff i done know how to do. sure i can take everything out alone, but i cant put it back in. i dont know sequencing, and how to do a lot of stuff. Does anyone want to help a newbie at this out and have some fun under the hood?? :)
It'll be probably later on next week if so, or i will probably end up haveing to pay main stream to do it for 4,000 vs. 1,000 if i do it with some help. i have a lot of friends with engine knowledge but no miata, and complete rebuild knowledge.

[simontibbett]

MAINSTREAM WANTS 4K FOR A REBUILD?!!?

[RotorNutFD3S]

I wouldn't doubt it.

[simontibbett]

btw it sounds like just a water pump...my Miata had the same problem not long ago.

[Flash13783]

It was just a water pump lol, but i want the engine like new and strong before i put the turbo on it. and i got the block out tonight. now alls i have to do is dissassemble everything and get them dropped off for the work.

does anyone have a manual on how to put it back together i.e. the order to tighten the bolts and how many lbs. of pressure??

[RotorNutFD3S]

You might want to invest in a Factory Service Manual. You will use it more than once. :)

[Flash13783]

yea i got one for a rebuild. I have some buddies helping me that hopefully know what their doing, but im building this thing to turbo it. anyone have anything they would recommend to put in like. certain pistons, or rings, or a special head gasket?? let me know cause i dont want stuff screwing up when i put the turbo on!!!

[GraffitiPanda]

wow... i wanna see how that works out... ppl r telling me to be weary of my turbo because i have 110,000 miles on my motor...

[RotorNutFD3S]

While the age/mileage may affect the engine, how it was maintained will affect it more. Have you done a leakdown or compression test on it yet? If not, it would be a very good idea to do so. Both of those tests will give you a good foundation of information about your engine's condition. I'm sure you've seen FM brag about their customer that has had an FMII kit on his car since he bought it, and now at 300,000 miles and always at 12psi he's never had any major issues. A good tune and proper maintenance will result in mostly worry-free operation.

[Doppelgänger]

I boosted my 96 with like 150k on it... no problems.

[metalman]

Theres a local SC'd 1.6 that was done at 186k and now has 230ish or more....no issues.
Its a matter of whether the engine is a 'good' one to begin with.

[jesseealexander]

if youre gonna boost it and try to make crazy power, i would say AT LEAST get a multilayer metal gasket and aftermarket head studs. but as long as you plan on staying below 12psi, a metal gasket should do well with the stock studs. i have seen many boosted miatas with >150k miles go forever with no major problems. you have the right idea in mind about the rebuild though. you never know how a car was maintained prior to your maintenance, so a fresh start really is your best bet.

and nik, 110k is NOTHING to worry about. your car has a pretty strong motor and seems to have been well maintained in the past. boost to your hearts content. lol

[simontibbett]

I'm going to run 30lbs on mine as is lol.

[RotorNutFD3S]

if youre gonna boost it and try to make crazy power, i would say AT LEAST get a multilayer metal gasket and aftermarket head studs. but as long as you plan on staying below 12psi, a metal gasket should do well with the stock studs.

To provide a little more detail about the head gaskets, I don't know what year Miata Flash has, I want to say it was a 1.6L, but for general reference, 94+ Miatas use multilayer metal head gaskets as OEM. 90-93 use a composite gasket, so an upgrade is a good idea there.
Also, if you decide to go with aftermarket studs (I definitely recommend ARP), be sure that your tune is in good shape. With OEM studs, if you get serious detonation, your head gasket has the opportunity to blow and act like a fuse. When you have something as strong as ARPs holding the head down, the gasket has no chance to blow and your engine starts eating the pistons and rods.

[Flash13783]

ok been a while since i've been on , but THE CAR IS FINALLY DONE..and i love it.
I upgraded the rods and pistons to forged eagle rods and wiseco pistons. All new gaskets. one of my cylinders were sleeved and all of them bored 20 over and then honed to the exact pistons. had the head sent to dover and completely re-done and put everthing back togeter! There were a lot of head ache's along the way but all and all the car is running awesome! i also added borla exhaust from enthuza and a just for looks roll bar lol. and i upgraded to an oem exedy clutch.

[simontibbett]

Cool congrats!

[Doppelgänger]

ok been a while since i've been on , but THE CAR IS FINALLY DONE..and i love it.
I upgraded the rods and pistons to forged eagle rods and wiseco pistons. All new gaskets. one of my cylinders were sleeved and all of them bored 20 over and then honed to the exact pistons. had the head sent to dover and completely re-done and put everthing back togeter! There were a lot of head ache's along the way but all and all the car is running awesome! i also added borla exhaust from enthuza and a just for looks roll bar lol. and i upgraded to an oem exedy clutch.

So where did you get the rods and pistons? What shop did the machine work? And if you don't mind, what was the cost of assembling/machine the block?

Sounds like the engine will be more than capable for some boost! HP goals?

[Doppelgänger]

if youre gonna boost it and try to make crazy power, i would say AT LEAST get a multilayer metal gasket and aftermarket head studs. but as long as you plan on staying below 12psi, a metal gasket should do well with the stock studs. i have seen many boosted miatas with >150k miles go forever with no major problems. you have the right idea in mind about the rebuild though. you never know how a car was maintained prior to your maintenance, so a fresh start really is your best bet.

and nik, 110k is NOTHING to worry about. your car has a pretty strong motor and seems to have been well maintained in the past. boost to your hearts content. lol

Are you referring to the 1.6? I've never heard of the 1.8L having any headgasket problems... and im running ~12psi on a 10:1 comp. engine.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Sounds like you're ready to build a beast. Except for the Exedy clutch. When it's boost time, you'll want to upgrade to something that can handle more torque, ACT Heavy Duty or Extreme.

[metalman]

I've never heard of the 1.8L having any headgasket problems...

While I havent personally run into headgasket issues pertaining to turbos etc I have noticed that 1.8's do tend to 'eat' headgaskets. Seen quite a number of them, on engines that were never overheated too. Not sure why, just an observation.

[Doppelgänger]

Maybe some other form of bad treatment?

[metalman]

Maybe some other form of bad treatment?
In some cases I dont know. In others, the car was always serviced and taken care of, so I am not sure. Nearly all the fails I have seen have been in the 95-97 year range too.

[RotorNutFD3S]

I can say from experience, do not ever pressure wash the engine bay while the engine is still fully heated from driving, it will pop the headgasket quick. My mom did that, and then said it was running like crap on the way home, I ended up having to replace the headgasket on her '97 STO. Otherwise, it was a perfectly maintained Miata.

[Doppelgänger]

Interesting. Though i've never done such a thing.

[simontibbett]

I can say from experience, do not ever pressure wash the engine bay while the engine is still fully heated from driving, it will pop the headgasket quick. My mom did that, and then said it was running like crap on the way home, I ended up having to replace the headgasket on her '97 STO. Otherwise, it was a perfectly maintained Miata.

That's weird, I haven't heard that before. Thanks for the info.

[Flash13783]

I got eagle rods from and eagle rod distributor and the wiseco pistons were ordered from some place called rpm performance. The head was sent to dover and the block, (after letting my dad try to remove a freeze plug with a dent puller....stupid but you cant tell parents that lol) was sent to a place call walker custom performance, he sleeved the cylinder and bored all the cylinders 20 over and then honed them to the exact pistons. resurfaced the block and patch the holes in the water jackets for like $300. I reassymbled the motor with all new gaskets, o-rings, bearing etc...And put it in the car...
I timed it last night and took it for a run and it's way faster than it was before. It barked tires goin in second shifting at 6rpm's never done that before. and thats with 17 with pretty big and wide tires.

idk how many horses i gained i did go with low compression pistons so not as much as i could but better for when the turbo goes on!

just a few pics i have a lot more i'll post them when i have time to send them from my phone

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Congrats on the successful rebuild, that's a pretty mean looking engine.

[RotorNutFD3S]

idk how many horses i gained i did go with low compression pistons so not as much as i could but better for when the turbo goes on!



Well, you probably are just a little above where you started when the engine was taken apart.
Depending on the head work, you should have better flow, however, with lower compression pistons, you've lost power, so let's say for the sake of argument that you've evened out there, but maybe a little better. However, with the rebuild it means your compression numbers should be strong, so you have a bump in power there over an old, tired engine.
If you have a ways to go before you go turbo, bump the timing up, run premium, maybe a DIY intake, and enjoy what you have for now!

Does look good though! Should be a beast when you get it boosted. What CR are the pistons?

[Flash13783]

i'll check the cr when i get back in town , but what do i set the timing to?? I'm new to a lot of this but i got a timing light the other night and put the mark dead center on the mark tab that sticks out, maybe i'll just wait till a meet and bring the light and tools and get someone to help me out lol

as far as intakes what do yall suggest that doesn't cost that much but is really affective??

And my timing was off and the first tank of gas only lasted me 200 miles running mid-grade gas. if i run the high premium with the timing advanced a little like you said will i get better gas milage or is that just because it was a new motor and hadn't really been broke in yet??

i've read running high grade can do less if your car doesn't really need it?? or does my car need it lol?

[Doppelgänger]

You shouldn't need anything but regular if your timing is stock, esp. with the low compression ratio of the engine. As far as timing, you'll want to use the left mark of the two makes. Rmember that the incriments where you read the timing is done in 2*. Bumping it up to 16* should yield some good mid-range punch and will require the use of premium. I don't think it'll really help with MPG, that's mostly up to your right foot :lol:

There really isn't an intake that is better than another one. Your best bet will be to put a cone filter on the stock tubing for now...since you plan on going turbo.

[simontibbett]

You don't HAVE to use premium always.

[RotorNutFD3S]

With the timing advanced, using premium reduces the risk of detonation. I'd rather spend ~$0.15/gallon more on gas than replace a destroyed piston. ;)

[simontibbett]

True, I just meant if you are just cruising around town you probably won't have issues, I don't. If you are going to beat on it it could be different.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Oh, yeah, in that case. But cruising around town and having your timing that far advanced is basically an oxymoron. :lol:

[simontibbett]

LOL well I DD my car.

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Simon, I hate to say it but I don't think many others (perhaps clinically insane/Tommy) would! :lol:

[simontibbett]

Would what? lol

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Daily drive your car.

[simontibbett]

Oh LOL

[Flash13783]

well mine is a dd and it seems to idle low....well on the timing i will probably wait till a meet when ya'll can take a look at my car and tell me what ya think lol.
Is this what your talking about just an adapter with a cone ...and i'll probably get a better filter but http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__90-91-92-93-94-Miata-MX5-MX-5-Air-Intake-Filter-Adapter_W0QQitemZ300280247174QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ2 0Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZView ItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?_trksi d=p4506.m20.l1116

[simontibbett]

^Yeah that's what I would do. You can sometimes find those adapter pieces at a Pep Boys.

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Yep, pepboys have them sometimes, we used from there on Mitch's B13.