2002 SE With FM Turbo and A Lot More...

[Doppelgänger]

Well, I figure I might as well make one of these too.

After a couple of months of looking at new Miatas, I came across one I knew I had to have. The car was a 2002 SE Titanium, a Miata i've wanted since I saw one back in 2003. It had a few modifications done to it already, but they were the kinda of things that I would want i na car so it didn't bother me. After talking to the owner and figuring out he was probably the best kind of owner/sell you can find. All of the essential parts seemed to be the best of the best.... FMII turbo kit with the Hydra and 2560, Ohlins suspension, rollbar, wheels, harnesses, large raidator, and some other small details that just fit very well. After striking up a final price, Jenn and I were on our way to Va to pick it up.
Here is how she sat as I bought her...

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/abba4f91.jpg

And jsut a few days later, the new owner came down from Maryland to buy my 99. I took the opportunity to take a picture of 3 boosted Miatas in my drive way.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_1033.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_1035.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_1032.jpg

It didn't take me long to get the Garage Vary bumper, Mazdaspeed headlights and Rotas on the car to give it my personal touch on the outside.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_1044.jpg

But there was one thing I didn't particularly care for about the 02 SE anymore - the saddle brown interior. I don't mind the color, but it was the leather that had to go.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/87ao2f4.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/80njqsn.jpg

So out with the brown and in with the blue. The seats came from a 10th Anniversary Edition and the brown door panel inserts were replaced with blue ones the originally came in the 03 Sinshen Edition... but I had to order these particular ones from the dealership.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/Miata_interior_1280x800.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4076.jpg

...and some random shots for now (some from Jenn :) ).

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4511.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4514.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/railyard5-1.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/2-4b.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/railyard2-1.jpg[hr]
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/1-3.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_2260.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/railyard.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/Miata_01_1280x800.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4555-1.jpg

And a few trackday shots compliments of Jenn :)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3076/2425995598_b1f96cb56c.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3194/2425181215_1aedbb2c36.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3255/2425904148_1278f27772.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3126/2352779600_16cd1498fc.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3161/2425145407_4007dfc2d8.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2204/2351994689_273e9a1547.jpg

[RotorNutFD3S]

I found some pictures the other day of your '99 that I took from the very first meet I met you at.
And I like the side shot in front of the building glass. Looks like the car is a snake about to eat something. :)

[Doppelgänger]

I found some pictures the other day of your '99 that I took from the very first meet I met you at.
And I like the side shot in front of the building glass. Looks like the car is a snake about to eat something. :)


You mean, back when you were doing burnouts at the Varsity?? :lol:

Had to do it:whistle:

Jenn took that picture over at the King&Queen building :cool:

[RotorNutFD3S]

I found some pictures the other day of your '99 that I took from the very first meet I met you at.
And I like the side shot in front of the building glass. Looks like the car is a snake about to eat something. :)


You mean, back when you were doing burnouts at the Varsity?? :lol:

Had to do it:whistle:


Nope, wrong meet. The first meet I met you at was the other Varsity where Frosty brought out the widebody. :P

(I've been trying to call you too.)

[Greg]

Heres some from the weekend at the Dragon that I took:
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/GPJamesMVT/IMG_0476.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/GPJamesMVT/IMG_0497.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/GPJamesMVT/IMG_0499copy.jpg

[MeFryRice]

You car doesn't even look the same as when you bought it. It looks x100000 better now!

[mustangtomiata]

Not to mention mike's car is sick nasty. After i bought the exhaust from him we were down 85 between 60 and 70 and with it still being a little damp his car spun when the boost came on.

[deerock]

such a beautiful car. no doubt. great job! :D

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

My favorite NB. Really good job.

[Doppelgänger]

I was having the itch to do something the other day, so i pulled my valve cover off and painted it. I mixed Metalcast smoke and blue and got this disco color-changing grey to blue flipflip effect. I used just the smoke on the VVT solenoid and polished the oil feed line.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4623.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4620.jpg

[Doppelgänger]

Oh noes someone let me loose on Road Atlanta this past weekend. I managed to get up to ~135mph on the back straight, though I could have stayed in the gas longer and probably hit 140, I decided to make sure the brakes were up for it....and found out they did not like slowing me down from those speeds so I decided to cruise at a measley 120 for about the last 1/3 of the straight before the braking zone. The rest of the track is friggin awesome though!! My first time on RA as a driver and bet your *** i'll be back.

Guess my 4x4 ride height and "fwd off set wheels" and over sized slick tires are pretty useless :whistle:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3292/3016471693_a86251222e_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3237/3017302290_fe3e7c7251_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3002/3017299888_c1a1884965_b.jpg

note the sticker on my helmet:giggle:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3221/3016462815_c6d5ecd42e_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/3017299110_a31953160a_b.jpg


And some of the other cars that were out there...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3235/3016473593_8a7ff6108d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3175/3017293224_e09e25422b_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/3017293970_1afdbfe35d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3044/3017304534_30ec5eae31_b.jpg


and then there was this NB turbo... which i've seen somewhere before but can't remember where. Talked to the guy and he said some shop in FL fab'ed the turbo kit. I didn't get to talk to him long before I headed out on the track.
It wasn't going all that fast out there..probably because it was scrubbing and on ****ty Toyo street tires.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3288/3016459475_d575da2142_b.jpg

[mustangtomiata]

When are you doing another track day?

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Some cool pictures, I really want to get out on Road Atlanta, what was the final turn like? Turn 12?

How long did the valve cover take to dry? I've been wanting to do it but don't want to find myself in a situation where I can't do anything for a while.

[JennB]

I'm so used to shooting at Road Atlanta during the afternoon and evening. The outside of 10A/B is fabulous for taking pic then but I really should have been on the inside since it was early in the morning. Oh well, I'll be back up there in February to take some more that won't be so dark.

[Doppelgänger]

Jack, I had an extra VC given to me, so I took my time and painted it put it on a few days later. But generally, it takes about 20min to take it off... do whatever prep work, paint and let dry for a couple hours and put it back on.... it makes a good lazy Sunday project...or even a 'I got off work and will be doing nothing tonight' project.

Turn 11/12 is a little scary the first few times. It'll take a few times to get used to going over the hill and trusting that the track will be there. By my second session, I was goign into 11/12 at around 80mph and coming out of 12 ~100mph...though it can be taken much faster. I was aiming for the red-white lights under the bridge (this makes sense when you're on the track). Turn 2 is just as intimidating because you can't see it... you have to get the timing just right on braking... natuarally you'll want to brake early but will soon realize how late you really can brake. I was only using 4th gear for turns 2,3 and 4.

[Doppelgänger]

More fun parts. But since I am here at work, I can post pics until I get home.

So thursday afternoon 12/4 my friend Thomas (owner of AutoFAB Motorsports) and I decided to tackle the turbo manifold replacement. It was an interesting 10 hours of work mostly because of the 10mm hardware for mounting the turbo to the manifold (previous mani had 8mm hardware). Tearing everything down took about 3 hours of maticulous wrenching and invintory of all nuts, bolts, washers, hoses and screws followed by drilling out the exhaust side of the turbo's mounting holes. Then came mounting the new manifold, aligning the EGR , which took about an hour just to do. But the big PITA was getting the downpipe elbow aligned with the studs on the back of the turbo...which took us to about 4:30am friday morning....where we decided to stop working. Got in Friday afternoon and finished assembling the downpipe and put everything else back together.

Oh it's so nice to not have anymore exhaust leaks under the hood! Spool seems to be a bit improved too. We also put new ss brake lines on the car and new Hawk HP+ pads in prep for the TGP track day where all the new parts performed perfectly!

I'll have the pics up soon....

[RotorNutFD3S]

Been there, done that. Good to know it worked out well though!!! How was TGP? Besides cold.

[simontibbett]

Jack, I had an extra VC given to me, so I took my time and painted it put it on a few days later. But generally, it takes about 20min to take it off... do whatever prep work, paint and let dry for a couple hours and put it back on.... it makes a good lazy Sunday project...or even a 'I got off work and will be doing nothing tonight' project.

Turn 11/12 is a little scary the first few times. It'll take a few times to get used to going over the hill and trusting that the track will be there. By my second session, I was goign into 11/12 at around 80mph and coming out of 12 ~100mph...though it can be taken much faster. I was aiming for the red-white lights under the bridge (this makes sense when you're on the track). Turn 2 is just as intimidating because you can't see it... you have to get the timing just right on braking... natuarally you'll want to brake early but will soon realize how late you really can brake. I was only using 4th gear for turns 2,3 and 4.

Yeah just aim at the redlight. Turn 2-4 is probably my favorite, quick brake, turn in, hop the curb and don't lift again until 5 at the top of the esses. Then I love the rumble strips there because it's fun to feel like you are destroying your car lol. Turn 12 really is not the scariest turn on the track at all to me. You do it once and it's just another turn. The esses are a lot more wreck friendly.

[mustangtomiata]

^+1, the esses and turn 5 are the best part of the track IMO also, 10a can be fun when you want to play around a little bit too.

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

God I need to turn out on this track some time. ****, I just need to get out on a track in general!

Mike, every time I look at your NB it makes me start to want one. The NA's are my favorites still but it's certainly getting closer!

[Doppelgänger]

Oh noes...i've been parts shopping....

(compliments of Jenn for my b-day)

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4692.jpg

And I finally got some little bits that i've been wanting to complete the asthetics of my Bastard Child project - a titanium MSM mirror, 2003 SE floor mats (blue print rather than the brown ones that came with the car) and 03 SE emblems (blue rather than the black/yellow that is on the car now) for the sides. I thought about just taking them off, but I do want to look a bit different from the MSM.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4697.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_4703.jpg

[wildfire0310]

Nice nice. It is the little things that set it apart.

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

So what exactly is your car now? :lol:

[Doppelgänger]

a Miata


;)

But the parts list of parts from other cars is rather funny...

Mazdaspeed Miata headlights
Mazdaspeed Miata rear wing
Mazdaspeed Miata rear mirror
Mazdaspeed Miata rear lower lip (soon to come, not pictured)
1999 10th Anniversay seats
1999 gauges
2003 Sinshen door panels
2003 SE floor mats
2003 SE emblems

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

arf arf

[RotorNutFD3S]

Needs moar MSM door sills. :D

[Doppelgänger]

thinking about it.... but the cheapist I have seen them is like $125 or $150. Maybe later.

[RotorNutFD3S]

I will find you a better deal than that sir. Just found a set for someone else for $50 + shipping.

[Doppelgänger]

Well, the mirror is installed as is the side skirts...but i'm waiting on one new emblem because one of them was heat damaged. Will have pics up soon!


Now i'm debating on whether or not I want to ditch all of the silver accents on the interior (eyeball vent surrounds and radio/shifter surround) and going with all black.

[scandmx5]

where can i buy the mazdaspeed front bumper? (w/o going to Jim Ellis). will they fit an 03? i've looked to no avail on finding them anywhere

[Doppelgänger]

all bumpers from 2001 to 2005 are the same. The MSM had a specific lip spoiler on the front bumper. Yes you can buy it... but you better be sitting down when they tell you how much they are.

[Doppelgänger]

oh noes.... I just spent too much money and a set of new Kumho V710s :(



Dammit I need to go out and get some new pics of the car...

[JennB]

If it was sunny today, I'd say let's do it. Maybe tomorrow.

[ben91]

I want to go back to the secret place for some more cool pictures.

[ben91]

I will find you a better deal than that sir. Just found a set for someone else for $50 + shipping.
Pictures? I want to see what's different.

[Doppelgänger]

mine are brushed aluminum and say Miata on them, the MSM ones look the same but say MAZDASPEED on them.

[ben91]

gotya, not sure that's worth it then

[Doppelgänger]

Well, might as well update this a little.

Got my sideskirts installed...

http://img2.pict.com/21/fb/d7/65baa53cbda6868f8b36492336/O1BE0/800/img4744.jpg

[Doppelgänger]

Now i'm working on getting my tune back up to where it should be. After the dyno day, AFRs were shown to be nearly 11:1..which is a bit too rich. Found out that my WBO2 was tanked and probably causing the autotune to go into a safe mode and dump fuel in. Porbably explains why i've been having some misfire problems.

Found a replacement L2H2 type NTK/NGK WBO2 at Advance Auto (#15401). Oddly enough, is a Bosch boxed product. But it's a 5 wire and the wires are the same color. So I got that put in and i'm trying to figure out what the "right" process/settings are for WBO2 calibration. After that, Eric might help with a little street tuning to being it back up..maybe enve get a few more HP from it. I'm also trying to get a new VVT map from a member on M-T to see how much more mid-range TQ I can pick up. After that, hopefully i'll get the funds together for a 3" exhaust and a retune from Ed and shoot for close to 300rwhp.

[Doppelgänger]

..and with the NT03+M wheels...


http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/IMG_5098.jpg

[FlipKing]

Sexy as usual, God you go through wheels,lol

[Stealth97]

300whp? I see a built motor in your future.

[FooSchnickens]

Somehow those wheels just work. I don't think they'd look good on any other Miata.


Though I still like the old sideskirts...

[ben91]

300whp? I see a built motor in your future.I don't see it happening with a 2560 and the 01 intake manifold. However, he is missing a butt ton of torque down low as the car sits, even with the 2.5" exhaust.

Somehow those wheels just work. I don't think they'd look good on any other Miata.They look good on my car too. :biggrin:

[Doppelgänger]

I don't see it happening with a 2560 and the 01 intake manifold. However, he is missing a butt ton of torque down low as the car sits, even with the 2.5" exhaust.

They look good on my car too. :biggrin:

I think I can get close with the 2560 when I get the new exhaust and bump boost up to 15psi.
Remember, I have 10:1 comp. vs your 9:1

Oh, now that I see what Matt did with his VVT, i'll try making a few variants of that map and see what happens. I could probably do it on my own if I had a half damn understanding of what the values meant on that map.

[Doppelgänger]

Somehow those wheels just work. I don't think they'd look good on any other Miata.


Though I still like the old sideskirts...
:)

I still think the old skirts made the car look too narrow with the GV bumper :dunoo:



I took a couple pics this morning that I think look better...since I had more time...

http://img2.pict.com/84/8b/c6/cccfd3a36a16f74aa16e28f355/Km7p4/800/parkingdeck.jpg

http://img2.pict.com/43/40/5a/bac2e37b79cd4b64dde25df9a7/6b1Ht/800/doppelwork018.jpg

[RotorNutFD3S]

I like those pictures. Saved for work screen saver. :D

[ben91]

I think I can get close with the 2560 when I get the new exhaust and bump boost up to 15psi.
Remember, I have 10:1 comp. vs your 9:1

Oh, now that I see what Matt did with his VVT, i'll try making a few variants of that map and see what happens. I could probably do it on my own if I had a half damn understanding of what the values meant on that map.You seriously underestimate the flow restriction created in your intake manifold. The 01+ non MSM manifold is the worst of them all.

The higher compression might help you spool, but actually becomes a limiting factor up top as you'll have to retard timing. Then it becomes a balancing act between lessening advance to keep below the knock threshold and not burning **** up with super high EGT. And you don't have a pyrometer anyway.

The area that your car has the opportunity to shine is going to be low/mid torque. IMO, that's what you need to take advantage of. Remember, it's all about total area under the curve...

[Doppelgänger]

So what's the difference between the 01+ na and the MSM intake manifold?

I don't know if I told you or not, but when I put Matt's VVT values into my map, the car's power went flat.. and not in a good way. Unfortunatly because the wbo2 is acting funky, I couldn't really tell what was going on.

[ben91]

The port angles are the same, but the manifolds are pretty different inside. That cold start valve crap thing you have is a major choke point.

Matt's turbo is completely different than yours. The concepts remain teh same though. You need to retard around idle, advance in the middle, and retard towards teh top. It seems to be more about RPM than MAP, so you will need to "shift to the left" from his values.

You're also going to hit untuned cells that will benefit from (I'd expect) more timing and less fuel.

Still, the way your car pulls at 6500, it should pull like that starting maybe 4000, maybe 3500 with that exhaust.

[Doppelgänger]

Might there be any benefit to working the intake manifold (as in taking that stuff out)? I don't think i'll be doign the whole 99-00 intake manifold thing anytime soon.... i'd rather put that kinda time/money into a 2871rs :D

[ben91]

Will it help? Maybe a little. Not miracles or anything. I have one off my 01 motor you can look at some time. It's just a chitty design.

A 99 mani w VICS removed, or something aftermarket would be worlds better.

[RotorNutFD3S]

i'd rather put that kinda time/money into a 2871r :D

Fixed. :D

A 99 mani w VICS removed, or something aftermarket would be worlds better.

Geez, will you make up your mind as to using VICS or not? :lol:

[ben91]

I'm specifically talking about what MIKE should do. With the VVT head.

You and I should use VICS.

[RotorNutFD3S]

:lol: Ok, just checking. Because I was thinking "If I have to take the butterflies out of that plenum one more time..." :p

[GVfanatic]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3288/3016459475_d575da2142_b.jpg

who's red NB is in this pic, cuz i swear i saw it comin north from grantville on i-85 last saturday?

[FooSchnickens]

http://www.funnyforumpics.com/forums/Thread-Hijack/1/Hijack-Duke_Nukem_Mission.gif

[RotorNutFD3S]

:lmao:

Kris is referring to a picture Mike posted on Page 1 of this thread.

[FooSchnickens]

Damn, it's rare I get a chance to use that pic, too.

[scandmx5]

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3288/3016459475_d575da2142_b.jpg

who's red NB is in this pic, cuz i swear i saw it comin north from grantville on i-85 last saturday?

G-ville represent lol, no but there is a guy in Grantville who also has a red NB like mine he drives it once in a blue moon...unless it was me. i unfortunatley reside in Grantville :facepalm:

[FE3tMX5]

twenty pound exhaust tip ftl

[scandmx5]

Mike how do you pass emissions, or is it registered in metro Atlanta?

[FooSchnickens]

The Hydra does OBDII output, no?

[RotorNutFD3S]

The Hydra does OBDII output, no?

No.

Unfortunately it will not return OBD-II codes.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4527&parentid=0&stocknumber=07-17000%20%201990-93

[ben91]

The Hydra does OBDII output, no?
LOL, felonious gray area for the manufacturer

[Gotsol]

Those wheels look sharp man. Will I be seeing you on Sunday at the Autocross?

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

:)

I still think the old skirts made the car look too narrow with the GV bumper :dunoo:



I took a couple pics this morning that I think look better...since I had more time...

http://img2.pict.com/84/8b/c6/cccfd3a36a16f74aa16e28f355/Km7p4/800/parkingdeck.jpg

http://img2.pict.com/43/40/5a/bac2e37b79cd4b64dde25df9a7/6b1Ht/800/doppelwork018.jpg

Pretty cool looking pictures, just need to be a bit brighter.

[GVfanatic]

G-ville represent lol, no but there is a guy in Grantville who also has a red NB like mine he drives it once in a blue moon...unless it was me. i unfortunatley reside in Grantville :facepalm:

nah man...wasn't you. it was this car. had the intercooler, polished lip on black wheels, dual exhaust, lowered.

[Doppelgänger]

Thanks guys :D

Well, my WBO2 drama has been taking over some of my free time. As some of you saw at the dyno day, the AFRs were like 11 flat..way too rich. Well, I diagnosed it as a bad wide band o2 sensor. Well, FM wants $275 for a replacement. Ouch. So I tried a Bosch one that someone recommended and had used on their car. Unforutnatly they have a Hydra 2.5 whereas I have a 2.17. So no good on the replacement WBO2 I bought. After countless hours on the internet looking for a cheaper alternative, I have been pretty much everywhere and come up empty handed. I even went to my local Audi delership and sent them on a goose chase looking for the original part number listed on the WBO2 that came with the Hydra, but they couldn't find anything and said they would call me when they heard something. So in the meantime I have been playing on ALLDATA and found a similar part number to the one on the broken WBO2 (036 906 262 B) which is 021 906 262 B...but I can't decide if I want to take the $130 risk to buy it and see if it works...it could be as simple as a difference in harness length or connector style, or be a completely different sensor. There is a Bosch replacement for the 021 sensor.. 17014 which is listed as a "LSU" sensor and so far i've been reading I need a L2H2.

Well I heard back from Audi and the WBO2 part number I gave them was actually for a VW Lupo (non-US market car) and that part nor it's replacement is carried by VW/Audi anymore. So that rests that case. Now I still need to find something that works. I found a replacement Honda WBO2 sensor for $99....but I don't know about that considering everywhere else, a replacement is $300+. Yes, I can use the front sensor from a 92-95 Civic VX or a 96-00 Civic HX. So that opens another door to replacement sensors. There is also a Bosch replacement for that, 13246, which also goes for quite a bit.

Yay...decisions. I wish I could find someone who knows VW/Audi parts VERY well to determine if the 021 is the same sensor as the 036.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Spend ~$200 on an AEM UEGO and wire it into the Hyrda. /problem :lol:

(Would be nice if that was possible.)

[Doppelgänger]

Well, it seems the Honda part number that is a L2H2 sensor and is Bosch 13246 can be had at Auto Zone for $199. But, they don't stock them at all. So I called Orilley's and they were $410...but they price match. So I called and they do have one in the warehouse...and they price match. So I told the guy that AZ has them for $213 out the door and he agreed to the price and said he has a driver at the Forest Park warehouse and that he will have the driver pick up the O2 for me. So i na few hours, we'll know if I have a working WBO2 again :party:

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Groovy!

[Doppelgänger]

Alrighty, new sensor is in. A quick run through the gears with some data logging shows AFRS dropping smoothly under full boost / 10%tps..which is good. The odd is my AFRs only go as high as 16 when I let off the throttle...so I might need to retry the free air calibration. Also, AFRs at WOT were low 10s...which could also be calibration. But the important thing is that the range of AFR seems more normal and progressive to TPS/Boost.
Funny thing. When I took the 13246 out of the box, there were no markings on it, but if you pull back the loom/sleeve that covers the very top of the sensor, there is NTK markings on it. I mean, I knew it was a re-boxed NTK by my research, but it's funny to see how Bosch tries to cover it up :giggle:

[RotorNutFD3S]

Glad to hear it's doing something... Did you do the free air calibration on it?

[Doppelgänger]

Yup. Still had to drop the zero cal value to 120 to get 14.7 with the WBO2 unplugged and man did that sensor heat up FAST. It only took maybe 2 minutes for it to shoot up to 20.4. I know I read somewhere it's recommended to actually drive a bit and then re-calibrate the WBO2. Car feels smoother, but still a hint of misfire. I think the fat AFRs are pretty close to accurate because I can feel a bit of "flatness" in the midrange when I punch it. But once I have it on full boil and rowing through the gears it runs much better.

[Doppelgänger]

Alrighty, after doing some more reading and research, i've started putting my battle plan togeter on the next upgrades:

-FM Dual-feed fuel rail
-Walbro 190lph fuel pump
-Mtuned coolant re-route. I know this on is on the expensive side, but it looks like the ease of installation is super easy and straight forward, which I like.
- 3" custom catless exhaust.
- Have Ed@ BP retune the car and see how close we can get to 300rwhp.
-Oil cooler

The fuel pump doesn't seem to be a bad project, but the fuel rail looks like it'll be a roya PITA..so when the times comes i'll be asking for assistance :D

I'd like to take the intake mani off and clear it out too... but that's going to be a hell of a project...unless Ben will work something out with me on the extra one he has and I do all the work upfront to it and swap it. i'm also wondering if I can benefit from a 160 or 180 t-stat since I have the Hydra and can control the fan temp operation.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Fuel rails aren't too bad, the worst part is routing the lines so they won't rub on anything.
Why do you want an oil cooler? Have you ever seen your temps?
Don't go with a lower temp thermostat, didn't you watch Joe Perez's video? Colder is not always better.

[Doppelgänger]

Well, I don't see any cons to adding a oil cooler, esp. to a turbo car. I can only imagine that on track I can get the oil temps pretty hot.
As for the t-stat, i know colder isn't always better, but if I can get coolant temps to drop down a bit i'd be happy since I can cut the fans on at like 180*. Since temps outside have gone up, my fans are on almost all the time now.. I don't like that. Figure I can try a lower t-stat before getting the re-route just to see what it can do for me....it's like a whopping $11 from AZ.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Yeah, a cooler on the track would probably benefit you, just didn't know if you had ever seen the temps or not. I know it's not necessary on a daily, well, as long as you keep up with oil changes.
What I'm getting at there is that the lower temp. thermostats open slower than the normal one does. So when it's finally full open, the regular temp. thermostat has already been open fully.

[ben91]

Alrighty, after doing some more reading and research, i've started putting my battle plan togeter on the next upgrades:

-FM Dual-feed fuel rail
-Walbro 190lph fuel pump
-Mtuned coolant re-route. I know this on is on the expensive side, but it looks like the ease of installation is super easy and straight forward, which I like.
- 3" custom catless exhaust.
- Have Ed@ BP retune the car and see how close we can get to 300rwhp.
-Oil cooler

The fuel pump doesn't seem to be a bad project, but the fuel rail looks like it'll be a roya PITA..so when the times comes i'll be asking for assistance :D

I'd like to take the intake mani off and clear it out too... but that's going to be a hell of a project...unless Ben will work something out with me on the extra one he has and I do all the work upfront to it and swap it. i'm also wondering if I can benefit from a 160 or 180 t-stat since I have the Hydra and can control the fan temp operation.
You want a 255lph hp, not the 190.
I have an extra 01 manifold, no big deal.
You don't want to go colder on the tstat. However removing the tstat for track use can be good.

Fuel rail isn't hard as much as it's a PITA. I need to do mine too. Why not do the ETD rail? that's what I got.

[Doppelgänger]

I didn't know that ETD had a rail. I'll look it up when I get home.
Removing the t-stat for track use would be a PITA. If the 160/180 open slowly at those temps, i see it as a good thing as it'll be addinging cooler fluid to the system rather than just dumping it all in at once. I don't see it acutally hurting anything though. What's the benefit of a 255 over the 190? I really don't care to hear the 255 whizzing as i drive around.

[Atlanta93LE]

A lower temp thermostat won't make your car run any cooler, just take longer for warm-up. Ideal operating temp is above the t-stat temp, so it'll be open during proper operation no matter the opening temp.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Your thermostat opening slowly is a bad thing. Less coolant in the engine, or it flowing slower means there's not as much there to remove heat. Thus, engine overheats. You want the system flowing at full capacity as soon as possible, especially when you're going to be beating on it.

You want to use the 255lp/h because the pressure ratio across the injectors is non-linear in your NB, you need all the pressure you can get. The rule is NA = 190, NB = 255.

A lower temp thermostat won't make your car run any cooler, just take longer for warm-up. Ideal operating temp is above the t-stat temp, so it'll be open during proper operation no matter the opening temp.

Unless you get one of those low temp. ones that Joe tested, which actually fully opened much later than it should have.

[Doppelgänger]

Your thermostat opening slowly is a bad thing. Less coolant in the engine, or it flowing slower means there's not as much there to remove heat. Thus, engine overheats. You want the system flowing at full capacity as soon as possible, especially when you're going to be beating on it.
You want to use the 255lp/h because the pressure ratio across the injectors is non-linear in your NB, you need all the pressure you can get. The rule is NA = 190, NB = 255.



Unless you get one of those low temp. ones that Joe tested, which actually fully opened much later than it should have.

I dunno why I thought of this, but reguarding Joe's test, wouldn't the pressure of the water have anything to do with helping push the t-stat open since there is a pressure being put on it from the water pump? Joe's test may be partially conclusive bucause it didn't inclue all variables of a t-stat in it's operating enviornment.I mean, it's one thing to heat something up and watch it do something vs. adding pressure to something thats already heated up. Kinda like taking a cube of wax and throwing it on a hot pan and watching it defor vs. throwing a cube of wax on a hot pan and putting some pressure on it and forcing it to deform faster.

I did use one on my 99 and never noticed any negative side effects..though I could see the temp gauge sit lower when it was cold outside vs. sitting perfectly at 12 o'clock in the summer.

And with adding a dual-feed fuel rail, wouldn't that cure the pressure problem across the injectors?

[RotorNutFD3S]

No, pressure against the thermostat won't make a difference. The spring is strong to resist that pressure, otherwise the thermostat would start to open as soon as the water pump comes on. All in all, do what you feel is ok. Personally I want my engine operating in it's recommended temperature range at all times and as soon as possible, but that's just me, YMMV.

As with the fuel pump, the dual rail may help the pressure issue, but you still need the pressure that the 255 delivers. Or, so most of the threads on mt.net say. Again, your call.

[Doppelgänger]

Yeah, not trying to argue, just getting insight :) (unlike Hyper)

[RotorNutFD3S]

:lol: I gotcha man! If you were being Hyper-ish, I would have changed your screen name/avatar to Peter Pan already. :D

[Doppelgänger]

Oh Ben, the ETD fuel rail is the same as the M-Tuned sold by 949Racing...hmm.
The FM one comes with the connector i need and the feed lines/fittings, unlike the M-tuned one.

[ben91]

Yeah ETD's miata line is M-Tuned.
I have one if you want to see it.

FM's rail is pretty, just expensive. The lines are no big deal unless you must have stainless.

[Doppelgänger]

I figure that i'd want the stainless lines if i'm going to be in there. I also see that MTuned wants $70 for their fitting/hardware kit, so that's up to $190 for theirs which use various plastic bits. Whereas the FM ones comes with the AN fittings and SS lines ...and it's PURPLE FOR EXTRA HP!! :lol:

I'd like to also eventually change all my lines over to SS ,water and oil drain on the turbo, as well as the clutch line and fuel lines.

[wildfire0310]

I figure that i'd want the stainless lines if i'm going to be in there. I also see that MTuned wants $70 for their fitting/hardware kit, so that's up to $190 for theirs which use various plastic bits. Whereas the FM ones comes with the AN fittings and SS lines ...and it's PURPLE FOR EXTRA HP!! :lol:

I'd like to also eventually change all my lines over to SS ,water and oil drain on the turbo, as well as the clutch line and fuel lines.


The big question is... is it worth the cost to go through FM when you can go to summit and get all the AN fittings and SS lines local instead???

I guess in the end it is one of those time vs money thing.

[RotorNutFD3S]

I'd like to also eventually change all my lines over to SS ,water and oil drain on the turbo, as well as the clutch line and fuel lines.

Damn, I could have sworn you already did your clutch line. You need to get on that, the OEM one failing is a pain in the ***. And the SS clutch line is like $30. So very worth it.

I've got to finish the SS lines for the fuel rail now, I was going to incorporate a hardline fitting on the fuel line that comes up from under the car, but didn't want to deal with any bits of metal getting in the line. I think it'll be ok with going from the rubber hose to the fitting on the tee.

[Doppelgänger]

The big question is... is it worth the cost to go through FM when you can go to summit and get all the AN fittings and SS lines local instead???

I guess in the end it is one of those time vs money thing.


I'd just rather get everything at once and know it'll all fit right off the bat...becaise i'm that lazy :D

[ben91]

I figure that i'd want the stainless lines if i'm going to be in there. I also see that MTuned wants $70 for their fitting/hardware kit, so that's up to $190 for theirs which use various plastic bits. Whereas the FM ones comes with the AN fittings and SS lines ...and it's PURPLE FOR EXTRA HP!! :lol:

I'd like to also eventually change all my lines over to SS ,water and oil drain on the turbo, as well as the clutch line and fuel lines.
I'll have $20 maximum in fittings for mine, probably less.
But it will be rubber lines. AN fittings are real expensive.

My other lines are already stainless.

Not sure how I feel about stainless wqater and oil lines to the turbo unless they go through a distribution block like mine. The lines are so damn expensive, and will still need to eventually be replaced.

[Doppelgänger]

OK, update on the WBO2 issues i've been having.

I re-calibrated yet again last night. I didn't really change much on the Zero Cal and Grade Cal (120 and 115). I was also looking through some of my older maps at various settings and saw that the autotune RPM range was 1500-7500 and the map i've been tinkering with was like 1500-3500, so I changed that back. I also noticed the setting for cutting fuel upon lifting off the throttle..and activated that setting. So I got a little data logging done on my way to work and was pleasantly surprised. On boost AFRs properly dropped to the low 11's and held steady at WOT. But the difference when I lifted off the throttle... AFRs jumped up to 20.5 within ~1-2 second, which tells me the WBO2 is now reading correctly...and that i'm saving a little bit more fuel while driving around :lol:

Unfortunatly I was stil l getting a bit of breakup when rolling into WOT...but it smoothed out at high RPMs and one I shifted, the entire next run through the RPMs was smooth. This leads me to believe it's something with the spark plugs. Probably get some new ones, gap them to .032 and go from there.

[Doppelgänger]

Good news!

I got around to pulling the spark plugs (again), but this time I re-gapped them. Yeah, the gap they were set at was ~.042" across the board. So I reduced the gap to .035" and bingo (kinda :facepalm: at the same time), everything is back to normal. Finally! Oh it feels so nice. Wish the car was running like this at the dyno day :(

[scandmx5]

Wish the car was running like this at the dyno day :(

it still pulled me back in the seat that day :lol:
congrats

[Doppelgänger]

yeah, but it's pulling WAY harder now.

[RotorNutFD3S]

I told you so. :D

[Doppelgänger]

I thought I had gapped them to ~.038 when I put them in :dunoo: Bah, either way, it's running all good now.

[Doppelgänger]

Well, got to tinkering with the car a bit last night. Since I had the GV bumper installed, it has started to sag a bit and create a gap between the hood and bumper. I'm not really surprised since the only support is the 6 bolts that hold it on and fiberglass likes to flex when there isn't much support. I was left with two options: 1) add some bracing to pull up on the bottom edge, 2) re-install the OEM front bumper support. I opted to re-install the bumper support since it would have a pretty large contact patch with the bumper and hold it up better. But the problem is the GV bumper is far from fitting over the support. So with the help of a borrowed sawzall, I started trimming. I ended up cutting the bottom half of the beam off. It fit under the bumper, but it was about 1/2" too low to make any contact with the bumper and hold it up. So I took some of the remnants and cut some smaller pieces and wedged them under the main beam, which was just enough lift to make the bumper a snug fit. Took me about 2hrs to get it all done but now I have a very taught bumper that does not flex nearly as much as it did before and the gap between the hood and bumper is back to where it should be and looks much better.

While I was at it, I added a brace to hold up the bottom of the "mouth" (air guide) that directs flow into the intercooler. It had a problem with being pushed down at speed and allowing air to go under the intercooler and I also bolted up the top of the inside of the mouth..I got about another 1.5" of airflow into the intercooler/radiator area now :D That's a lot of CFM when moving at speed!

Now I need to find where to get some ABS plastic sheets so I can make the undertray I want :D

And last but not least, my new decklid should be here soon. I plan on buying a couple of spoilers..1 big nasty one for auto-x. It has to be large and have a high angle of attack in order to create downforce at low speed. The other is going to be smaller and have much less AoA to add some stability at higher speed for when I do track days. Will have pics when that stuff shows up ;)

[scandmx5]

the Doppelganger is my only inspiration for a miata...something to look forward to and work on progress...other than that i hate them :lol:

[LagunaRoadster]

http://www.foureyesjokeshop.com/ProductImages/stockingstuff/***_Kisser_Gum_Front.jpg

Just kidding ;)

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

:lol: :lol: haha

[scandmx5]

funny, if i was trying to get **** in return...:facepalm:

[Doppelgänger]

Mmmm more parts came in the mail yesterday...

-New tires! Finally got rid of those ****ty Toyo FZ4 piles of ****. Got some Goodyear Eafgle F1 GSD3s in 235-40/17. Yeah, they're a bit larger then what I was running...but to me the wider tire is well worth it.

-BEGI water neck block off plate for when I really get my coolant re-route underway. All I really need now are the t-stat gaskets, a Kia water neck, some new hoses and some hose clamps. It came as a donation from a miataturbo member.

-Spare titanium Mazdaspeed trunk lid. Some of you may have seen the MSM spoiler for sale...this is where it came from. Needless to say, I am adding some downforce to the rear of the car and want to be able to swap out a decklid for track use with one for daily use (the one that is currently on the car).


I still need to find a local retailer of ABS plastic sheets so I can start on the front undertray/splitter.

[Doppelgänger]

Alrighty...I actually have an update.

I cracked another Flyin' Miata manifold. Now don't get all worried baout FM's quality...I just have a way of breaking stuff that no one else seems to.

http://img2.pict.com/1a/69/c7/7aa80b7bb3208514dc01233710/9Sgqa/800/img4747.jpg

So FM sent me a replacement, which came in the mail yesterday. The new unit is made in the good 'ole US (old one came from overseas..but not china) and came with a black coating...unlike the raw cast one it will be replacing. So this will be a project when I feel like it... I did NOT have a fun time replacing the last manifold.

I've found a source for alumalite right by my house and am taking the measurements and making the template for a splitter. At first I was goign to make a large flat splitter that went all the way back to the center of the front wheels, but have opted to run just an extended lip 3-4" on the front of the bumper to help move car around the car rather than under it.

The coolant re-route is kinda suspended at the moment...just have not gotten around to getting the last parts together.

[Doppelgänger]

O noes... a call has been made to Enthuza.....

[matredd]

3" perhaps?

[wildfire0310]

3" perhaps?

nah.. we need to start the 4" exhaust trend.

[RotorNutFD3S]

O hai. Welcome to the club. Almost.

[Doppelgänger]

Yeah... I guess we'll get to hear what 3" exhaust with no muffler, no cat and only a 5" Magnaflow resonator will sound like.....

I'm not the only one in the house that's getting an exhaust done soon......

[MeFryRice]

I thought Thomas was going to fab you something?

[JDM88]

Damn, you got your cat a small little car to drive around in and you're modifying it too?!?!11

That would be insanely cool. :lol:

[Doppelgänger]

nah.. we need to start the 4" exhaust trend.

Something tells me this would actually be hard to fit under a Miata....

Now 4" just turning down under the car might fit....

[RotorNutFD3S]

Yeah, let me just say from recent experience that the 3" is enough of a sewer pipe under the car, it will scrape on anything. :lol: 4" would require lifting the car instead of lowering it.

[MeFryRice]

Since your upgrading the exhaust now, you might as well upgrade the turbo as well. I'm pretty sure with some minor modifications, we could get this to fit.


...........oh yeah, it may be a little laggy. :lol:

[RotorNutFD3S]

We need to make a newer version of that picture. It's so freakin old. :lol:

[Doppelgänger]

My new upgrade.....to go with the exhaust.

http://www.outlawperformance.com/uploads/ABB3_massive_turbo.JPG

[RotorNutFD3S]

My new upgrade.....to go with the exhaust.

http://www.sixthsphere.com/phpBB3/images/smilies/redxrobot.gif

[Doppelgänger]

Your computer must hate you... I pulled it off of google and I can see it just fine.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Interesting, usually images my work computer won't open just come up as a dot. Yours was a red x of failure, however, I tried going directly to the link and the filter says: "The Websense category "Phishing and Other Frauds" is filtered." It does not like your picture. :lol:

[miatamike]

this thread makes me look at my card and say if i only had the limit i wanted i could have a miata that looks that dam good. like always this cars amazes me and people i know that hates miata and think there gay i fix that real quick with a pic of your miata. heheheh and both of those turbos are too small i spool that on my ktm250sx all day

[Doppelgänger]

So I took a trip to PAP today.....

I found a 2000 KIA Sausage...err Sephia


I opend the hood expecting the engine to be gone...the radiator and radiator hoses were gone....


But there, attached to the block, was the ultra coveted thermostat housing. A mere 30 seconds later, it was in my hands...and cost a whopping $4.61 :D
Now to go get 2 gaskets, a new t-stat and some radiator hose.

[Stealth97]

mmmm sausage

[oldgrayfrog]

okay Mike, enlighten me, why is the kia sephia thermostat housing so special?

[Doppelgänger]

It is used when doing the coolant re-route. Part of the re-route is to run the upper radiator hose to the back of the head. In order to do this, you have to move the t-stat to the back also. Well, to get the correct orientation for the radiator hose, it has been found that the KIA housing is the best option is it lines up with the correct bolt holes (since KIA uses the Ford/Mazda designed BP engines in several of it's cars).

New, it retails for about $20-$30...but it's hard to argue with $4 :lol:

[RotorNutFD3S]

Nice find dude! Told ya! :D

OGF, here's what Mike is talking about, Kia waterneck and a spacer which contains the thermostat (from my build):

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/252/2001/25628500147_medium.jpg

Makes it so that you can bring it around the front like so:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/252/2001/25628500159_medium.jpg

[Doppelgänger]

Tomorrow's fun...

Turbo manifold replacement and coolant re-route.

Parts shown for re-route:

Flexable water hose
1 1.5" aluminized steel hard pipe from ACE #4226008 18" long
2 t-stat gaskets
1 NAPA 180* T-stat
1 custom spacer
1 BEGI waterneck block off plate
1 1.5" radiator hose Advance # C71766
1 M8 1.25x70 bolt
1 M8 1.25x40 bolt (came off the KIA that donated its t-stat housing)
1 2000 KIA Sephia t-stat housing
1 tube of liquid gasket for threaded fittings (white kind)
2 1.5" aluminized pipes for joining soon-to-be modified radiator hose

http://img2.pict.com/7b/42/43/953231/0/800/img4902.jpg

http://img2.pict.com/a6/e6/f0/953230/0/800/img4901.jpg

[RotorNutFD3S]

What are you using to block off the EGR at the back of the intake manifold?

Oh, and we used the same forward hose going to the radiator. I cut mine down. :)

[MeFryRice]

That looks like it'll be a lot of fun to do the coolant re-route with the motor still installed. :lol:

[Doppelgänger]

What are you using to block off the EGR at the back of the intake manifold?

Oh, and we used the same forward hose going to the radiator. I cut mine down. :)

Funny how out of all the hoses I was looking at, I get the same one without any knowledge of the one you used :lol:

[RotorNutFD3S]

Great minds man...

[Doppelgänger]

OK.. well I got to crawling under the car last night.

Why?

I had to install a new sewer pipe..err exhaust. BIG PROPS to Jason at Enthuza!!!! I had him make me a 3" straight mid-pipe (no cat/resonator) and a custom XR Lightweight (larger resonator). It all went in as smooth as butter. The biggest PITA was taking the chassis bracing off the rear subframe. The sound is VERY VERY DEEP at idle and low-speed crusing...a little throaty too. But standing on the go-pedal does not equate to ear splitting loudness. Instead, the tone picks up to a higher pitch, volume increases slightly and it sounds so clean!

[wildfire0310]

OK.. well I got to crawling under the car last night.

Why?

I had to install a new sewer pipe..err exhaust. BIG PROPS to Jason at Enthuza!!!! I had him make me a 3" straight mid-pipe (no cat/resonator) and a custom XR Lightweight (larger resonator). It all went in as smooth as butter. The biggest PITA was taking the chassis bracing off the rear subframe. The sound is VERY VERY DEEP at idle and low-speed crusing...a little throaty too. But standing on the go-pedal does not equate to ear splitting loudness. Instead, the tone picks up to a higher pitch, volume increases slightly and it sounds so clean!

sweet. I need to come visit sometime and see/hear your new exhaust then.

[Doppelgänger]

Yeah you do... even come over to the 'hood to chill with your co-worker?

BTW, I think I finally spotted him the other day.

[wildfire0310]

Yeah you do... even come over to the 'hood to chill with your co-worker?

BTW, I think I finally spotted him the other day.

Haha he still hasn't seen you yet but he said he saw a black miata with gunmetal rims (aka jen) a few dozen times now. Lol

[Doppelgänger]

Yeah, I leave much earlier in the morn and get home much earlier.

I'm sure he'll hear me now though :D

[Spark!Plug]

F1 knock out qualifying just came on so i only read up to page 4 1/2...

First off, please dont take offense to what im ganna say, i LOVE your car and im green with envy... but the rims. not my taste, but otherwise.. nothing wrong with it at all. the rims i liked the best on your car were the first rims you put on when you first bought the car. but yeh this is just my humble opinion. 2weachyzown! To me, the Enkei NT03+m rims you have on your car look like OZ rally wheels that ive never been a fan of. but i can tell you that i dont think any other car could actually make them work like they do on your car.

i'd LOVE to take a ride in your car!!!!

[Doppelgänger]

Well, lately my gas milage has been going down...I wonder if it has anything to do with the 3" Enthuza that I finally got put on the car :D Amazing exhaust is an understatement. I had Jason make me a 3" mid-pipe with no converter/resonator and the "muffler" is a 5" resonator..and that's all I have for sound control. It's VERY deep with no rasp. I still have to drop the car off so Jason can fab a 3" down pipe to complete the exhaust.

As for the wheel comment- Yeah, I like both sets of wheels..I like the stance/lip of the D2s, but the fresh styling of the NT03Ms add even more uniqueness to the car. It's just a wheel that isn't seen much at all...not to mention how lightweight and strong they are. I'v been on the fence on painting the D2s lately...i'm thinking maybe a dark blue...
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/2-4b-1.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l281/teamFBG/2-4b-2.jpg

[Doppelgänger]

More new toys coming in the mail.....hopefully in time to put on before heading out to Flyin' Miata's Summer Camp track day.

Brembo big brake kit.. 4 piston calipers and 12.3" 2-piece rotors.

well..I had a picture, but the ad was taken down before I could save it :lol: Meh, the real thing will be here soon enough.

[matredd]

Big brake kit! Nice...

[Doppelgänger]

Yeah, this kit actually requires the use of 17" wheels.... so if anyone ever gives me crap about running 17"s again...all they're going to get is a picture of some big-*** brakes :lol:

[scandmx5]

nice
das driftmeister das doppelganger!

[RotorNutFD3S]

Haha! I actually talked to that guy about the kit. For $200 I was going to get the calipers and do my own brackets, but apparently the calipers are too big to deal with for smaller wheels. Nice score! You're definitely going to need a prop-valve now.

[Doppelgänger]

I don't think i'll need the prop. valve. I can actually trail-brake very easily right now...meaning I have plenty, if not a bit too much, rear bias for my driving style. So adding a bit more to the front might not really throw it off much. It wouldn't be hard to add a harder compound pad to the rear if I ever feel the need for more bite. Right now i'm trying to find out what compound the stock Brembo pads are like so I can gauge if i'll need to switch the rear coumpound or not.

Brake bias can be changed without the prop. valve. For example, if I wanted a trail-brake monster I could throw some HT110/HT114 or some Hawk Blacks on the rear and a HPS pad on the front. Or if I wanted to give the front all the bite, I could run a stock/organic pad on the rear and a HP+/Hawk Blue on the front.

But yeah.....for $200 I couldn't pass it up.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Don't know if you found this yet or if it will help you out, but I wrote notes down since I was planning to get this: Pad Code: 107.5146.31 (Brembo's part number) Friction Material: HP 1000

Brake bias can be changed without the prop. valve. Pad examples...

Or you can run the same pad all the way around and adjust a knob. :p

[Doppelgänger]

Is that a replacement pad for the BBK or for the stock rears? I've found the Brembo sport pads for stock calipers...but they don't really give any details on how aggressive the compound is.

[RotorNutFD3S]

That's the replacement Brembo pad for the big brake kit. That's the information that Brembo lists, but as you've found, they don't give much compound details. Might be a wise idea to call them, I went as far as reading the .pdfs on their site and couldn't find much information.

[Blackmamba]

Awesome car dood!:bow:

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Brembo's for $200?! Damn man. Good deal.

[Doppelgänger]

Thanks guys :)

If all goes well, I might have the brakes by thursday....who wants to come help me install them for Import Alliance? :D

Oh and Steve brought the PC over last Sunday and we gave my car a quick hit with a medium cut compound, a polish and a wax. Spent 6+hrs on just the paint! This included washing the car 3 times total. It looks friggin' awesome!!! I'll be give the car some final detailing tomorrow.... vacuum inside, clean inside with my Special Blend cleaner, give the car another wash and wax (Steve recommends waxing the car within a couple days of the initial buff/polish/wax). Not that I really want to do it again, but if it makes the finish last even longer, then so be it. I'll take the wheels off and wipe down the suspension, paint the rotor hats and calipers (if I don't get the Brembos on)....and finally a bit of cleaning under the hood.

[Sawyer]

Congrats on the Brembos! And no, I wasn't going to buy them from under you :lol:
I really want to see how your paint looks after the PC. Considering that it was already in great shape before.

[Doppelgänger]

Congrats on the Brembos! And no, I wasn't going to buy them from under you :lol:
I really want to see how your paint looks after the PC. Considering that it was already in great shape before.

Steve told me you were going to......


























































I keed :D

I was kindly joking with Steve when I said it because of the number of times that i've tried betting my hands on stuff in the past year only for some of those parts to be sold locally. Not that any such trans action took place because I showed someone the parts, but because they simply saw them for sale too. Disclaimer - I am not saying that anyone has bought something "out from under me" :)

[RotorNutFD3S]

I buy stuff so you can't have it. :p It just sits in a room.

[JennB]

All I know is my car better get cleaned this evening or there will be some brakes for sale for a really awesome price. :lol:

[GVfanatic]

Crack that whip!

[JennB]

LOL

I love you, dear. And your car looks very shiny lately.

[MeFryRice]

All I know is my car better get cleaned this evening or there will be some brakes for sale for a really awesome price. :lol:

Well just in case.....

DIBS!

:lol:

[Doppelgänger]

Well just in case.....

DIBS!

:lol:

They won't fit on your S2K.....

[RotorNutFD3S]

Actually they will, he'll just need a different mounting bracket and rotors and lines. :lol:

[Doppelgänger]

Actually they will, he'll just need a different mounting bracket and rotors and lines. :lol:


Which is... just about replacing everything :lol:

[RotorNutFD3S]

Right. But if Jenn sells the kit, he'd be getting the most expensive components for cheap. lol

[MeFryRice]

They won't fit on your S2K.....

They wouldn't be for my car. :p

[Doppelgänger]

FedEX says I has a package coming to my house tomorrow. Yes.... I had it overnighted from California...total ninja move.

[RotorNutFD3S]

http://www.mx5atlanta.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=173

[Doppelgänger]

Oh, in that case, im OK... it's 9:09am

[JennB]

And you get to keep your brakes. lol

[Doppelgänger]

YaY! Brakes got here yesterday. Wow these things are huge!! I need to get my hands on some ATE Super Blue for the install. I wish I could have put them on last night, but will probably do it Tuesday or Wenesday next week.

[Doppelgänger]

Eric, kinda had a "duh" moment when thinking about the whole prop. valve stuff for the brakes. It seems the people need it the most are the 1.6 guys with the upgraded fronts. Oddly enough, Mark at M-Tuned is coming out with a rear brake kit to help the guys running the Corrado kits...using the 01+ sport rear brakes. Well guess what came on my car..... :lol:

Still need to get my hands on some ATE so I can install these things.

[Doppelgänger]

Yay! GTE sells ATE SB for $15 :D

[RotorNutFD3S]

:party: :D

Now hurry up and install those calipers!

[Doppelgänger]

Guess I should update this :D

Well, as many know, the brakes are in...

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2899/2401/32246200075_large.jpg

And working great...I just have to install the Porterfield pads....sometime soon.


I've also sold the Enkei NT03=M and the Rota D2 wheels I had..kinda sad as I loved both sets of wheels but the new ones will be well worth it :) I also like hving a spare set of wheels and will eventually have a 2nd set. I'll post pics of the new wheels up soon :) **The wheels that are on in the above picture are NOT the new wheels, just a old set of SSRs that were in the garage...Jenn's old wheels.

But in the meantime, i'll toss up a couple of the best shots with the old wheels...

http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2899/2401/32246200057_large.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2667/3868859788_56b3140885_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3494/3815888941_1c5cb0122f.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2899/2401/32246200001_large.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3156/2583084018_09683cd5f0.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3358/3307609318_bfb3a4ba09.jpg

[Doppelgänger]

Well. i've been a bit busy today...finally got around to installing the coolant reroute. Let's see, I picked up the spacer from out (now missing) ReverendGreg back at the Flyin' Miata Comes to Atlanta Dinner the Friday night before The Mitty :lol:

Took me 5 hours (1 hour did include prepping, checking over, preassembling some parts while the car cooled down from running a couple errands). Getting the heater hose/temp. sensor housing out was actually easy. Once the stock stuff was out, I had a very fun time getting the stud out of the head on the back.....oh so much fun. Once out, I had even more fun trying to fit the spacer, Kia neck and the gaskets together and keeping everything aligned while I tried to get the bolts started in their threads.....if I ever have to do this again, i'll take the option to have teeth removed without anesthesia...man that sucked. I was smart enough to cover all those nasty hose clamps on the heater lines with a cloth so I didn't look like some Emo-loser who tried cutting up his arms...but I did manage to split the end of my right index finger pretty good halfway though the process...so working with it all bandaged up wasn't making things any easier. I managed to FINALLY get everything lines up and tightened up on the back and everything from there went very easy...it was just running the piping from the radiator to the new waterneck. The radiator hose I grabbed from AutoZone got cut up and I found some 1.25" steel couplers in the plumbing dept. at Lowe's. I'll post up pics of that particular part soon. But you can see it in the joint between the two 90* bends right off the radiator.

Once everything was in, I filled up the radiator only to find the spacer on the front was leaking. Fixed that and found one of the gaskets on the spacer on the back of the head was leaking....great. Since I don't have a way to go get one, i'll have to wait until tomorrow to get a couple new gaskets and get them in and take the car for a spin to make sure everything is OK.


Looks nice and clean

http://img2.pict.com/11/bf/2c/1674406/0/800/reroute.jpg

Quite a bit of room between the re-routed upper hose and the intake pipe. A lot of cars have a problem here with the two hoses being all up in eachother's business....which transfers heat into the intake.

http://img2.pict.com/40/75/f9/1674408/0/800/rerouteintakeradiator.jpg

And the spacer assembly on the back of the head...rather hard to get a good picture of.

http://img2.pict.com/95/1b/da/1674404/0/800/reroutespacerneck.jpg

[RotorNutFD3S]

Good job! You'll want to wrap your clutch line with something, otherwise through the coolant hose it will rub.

[Doppelgänger]

If oyu a re refering to the braded line that in t the pic, tha'ts my oil feed line and where it gets close to the temps sensor wires are covered with a piece of heaterhose so I dout that rubbing will be an isssue. But thanks for the hads up..I aosl plan on going back and coving the feed line with some of that plastic wire loom covinrgin or some ruber hose after I taek everything apart and replace the bad gasket tomnorrow.

[Doppelgänger]

Well, 6 months later and I think an update may be needed....though most of you have see other pics of my car in various picture threads.

Anyway.

Since this thread is missing the "new" wheels I was talking about a few posts up and are in need of better picture of the brakes...I present...

SSR C-RS in 17x7.5 +37 flavor

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2899/2401/32246200093_large.jpg

Also, kinda new since the last update are the Bomex mirrors.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2899/2401/32246200094_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2899/2401/32246200095_large.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4478792363_240f460813.jpg

Also bought a BeatRush rear PPF brace. This has really tightened up the flex in the driveline!! Shifts are 100x more crisp and precise. I was hesitant on posting up that I had this because I had to clear it with some of my fellow autoX'ers to make sure I wasn't breaking the rules in my class.

http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/Beatrush-PPF-brace-on-MSM/beatrush_ppf_brace_on_msm_002.jpg





And a better shot of the engine bay and the coolant reroute...

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2899/2401/32246200099_large.jpg


And a shot...just because...

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4478792371_e15e01cf1f_o.jpg

[Beastinthebushes]

That looks sick mike, I hope my SE can look this good one day. And then we can do a photoshoot, cause your photoshop work is pretty bad ***.

[CaveRacing]

Looks good. Always does.

[Doppelgänger]

That looks sick mike, I hope my SE can look this good one day. And then we can do a photoshoot, cause your photoshop work is pretty bad ***.

Nothing wrong with taking pics of a clean, stock car ;) Thank you for zee compliment :D You just need to pick up some H&R springs and some wheels man :p

[Doppelgänger]

Looks good. Always does.
Danke Herr Lee. How did the pics from the autoX turn out?

[Beastinthebushes]

Nothing wrong with taking pics of a clean, stock car ;) Thank you for zee compliment :D You just need to pick up some H&R springs and some wheels man :p

And better shocks, my car has no Bilsteins for some reason :(

But again, I use your car as a role model for mine, always liked your Miatas.

[CaveRacing]

Danke Herr Lee. How did the pics from the autoX turn out?

Good question. I haven't even looked yet. I didn't take many. The misty/drizzle started up and I put the camera away. I'll still take a look and see if I've got some good ones. I'll be at the next one, though.

[matredd]

I still haven't seen your car around Dunwoody. The rain shot looks like a stealth plane.

[Doppelgänger]

Dammit...my car knows it's spring because it has taken to fogging for misquitos :(

I've ruled out any issues with the block. It's not blow-by. I pulled off the intake charge pipe at the throttle body and it's all clean in there (I was actually surprised by how clean the inside of the TB/intake manifold was- no build up at all). I pulled the dipstick with the car running to verify no excessive crank case pressure.

Ugh.

I think I've narrowed it down to the turbo. After some research, it seems that it's necessary to run a oil restrictor in the oil feed line to the turbo as Garrett BB turbos only need like 20psi of oil pressure and running withotu one can push oil by the seals and cause smoke at idle. A friend of mine helped me find someone who has one and I'll be picking it up after work. I really hope this stops the smoke I've been seeing...and burning between 1 and 2 quearts of oil a week :( If it doesn't stop, I'll be looking for a new turbo....and I guess I'll try to upgrade to something a little bigger....2860RS/2871....something to help me get to 300rwhp.

[Doppelgänger]

Alrighty, picked up a new oil restrictor and installed it. The car was also running a little rich so I pulled the plugs, foudn the gap to be .040 to .045" and re-gapped to .035" and cleaned them up. I also got sick of the belt squeal and decided to go through the PITA process of tightening up the alt/wp belt. The final thing I did was to reload a older map. Now the car is running better/smoother. Next thing is for me to find an exhaust shot that sells 3" exhaust gaskets so I can fix my leaks and I need to replace the damn rubber shift boot to keep fumes out of the car.

Ugh.

[Doppelgänger]

OK, so it's been a week since I put the oil restrictor on the turbo and it seems to have made a significant difference. There is far less soot on my rear bumper, no more burnt smoke smell after driving/idling and I have not had to add oil after quite a bit moderate/hard driving.

I also managed to get my hands on a couple of 3" exhaust gaskets as well and installed them. Most of my exhaust leaks are fixed, but I still have a small at the turbo elbow/downpipe flange...but that one has always been there because of the 2.5"-3" change in piping. Yay.

[matredd]

RTV is great for exhaust leaks.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Yup. Red RTV, smells like crap but works great! Good job with getting the oil situation under control!

[Doppelgänger]

Painted my exhaust piping out of boredom....and polished up the resonator...err..."muffler".

http://img2.pict.com/42/3e/38/3411713/0/800/exhaust.jpg


My bumper finally succumed to some damage after a little over 2 years of abuse. I hit some 'road debris'..I think it was a cone that blew out into the roadway. Clocked it at about 60mph and it cracked the fiberglass under the bottom lip. Can't see anything from looking at it...except a nice scuff on the paint on the right side of the mouth. Oh well...if it bothers me that much, I'll call State Farm and tell them I hit some road debris.

[miata5620]

nice paint job it looks good and i havent seen it done before.

[Doppelgänger]

Well coming home tonight I was crusing down a hill and downshifted to engine brake. When I got back on the throttle the RPMs dithered for a moment and my car let out a HUGE backfire. Was at about 5,500rpm. Since I was in gear, I tapped the throttle again... BAM BAM.....BAM. I could even see the road lighting up behind me from the fire out the exhaust.

So I pull over and put the clutch in and rpms go to zero. Try cranking the car and it turns but no fire. Every few rpms the engine "chugs" but no fire...not even a 'almost start' shudder. It also does that hard momentary stop like timing is off every now and then.

So I get the car towed home and start pulling everything off thinking that the timing belt had skipped or broken. As soon as I pull the VC off I can see the t-belt is intact. OK so maybe it jumped. So I continue to pull off the belts, some of the timing covers and whatnot. I get just far enough in an hour that I can see the crank pulley for the t-belt.

This is where it gets interesting.

I turn the crank enough to get the TDC mark at 12 o' clock and check the cam timing. It's all dead nuts perfect.
Now it's panic time and I can't figure out what is wrong.


Cliffs-
RPMS act a little funny while engine braking
Throttle applied- (car moving and in gear) car shoots fire. This tells me that no spark is happening but fuel is.
Car will not start.
Engine turns and chugs out the exhaust, but no fire..no sputter of a bad bad idle.
Pull front of engine off enough to check timing marks and all are spot on.
I panic.

[miata5620]

Could it be the cam or crank shaft sensors failing?

[jzilla]

take it to Hector or Ben.

[ftjandra]

Does the Hydra show the correct rpms while cranking? My car had a similar issue when my crank trigger failed (aftermarket 60-2 setup).

--Ferdi

[ben91]

A mechanical failure to a piston or rod will not prevent spark events (assuming the engine is turning).

A broken engine sounds like "bang bang bang" if it spins, or seizes up.

Sounds more like you lost the crank or cam position sensor. I would suspect that they hydra software has a diagnostics mode where one could watch it read teeth on the trigger wheels, or lack there of.

Needs more checking for spark and fuel and less tearing down.

[matredd]

Yikes. Let me know if you need any help.

[FE3tMX5]

I agree with above- sounds like trigger.

[Doppelgänger]

Well, I put everything back together and changed out the samn sensor while I was at it. Car almost started. I had to hold the pedal at WOT while cranking and the car would occasionally run VERY hard for about 3 seconds before quitting with a backfire through the intake. Would not start at all with no throttle input.



Checked crank signal via my laptop and it counts RPM when trying to start.

[Stealth97]

Do you you have a stock ECU and injectors to try? You could possibly eliminate something there... But I'm with Ben, do you have spark and fuel? A compression test would be a quick and easy way to see if something bad happened.

[wildfire0310]

Well.

First does the hydra have a Megatune like software so you can see what all the inputs hydra should be seeing.

As for the lack of spark, lead me to believe one of three sensors(lack of NB and/or Hydra, my lead to a few longshot random ideas)

Cam(not sure if the NB use Cam just for checking or if a NEED input)
Crank
TPS(cause you mentions only at full throttle)

Otherwise.. any chance a short may have happened killing both coils?

The backfiring through the intake is what is getting me.

[Doppelgänger]

Trying to locate a timing gun and compression tester.

I have fuel and spark.

[wildfire0310]

Trying to locate a timing gun and compression tester.

I have fuel and spark.

I have both. If you need, i can come down and give you a hand. The rain is coming in so can't work on the house.

give me a call if you want.

[carfiend]

i have both and i'm right next door

[wildfire0310]

i have both and i'm right next door

Then walk next door and help :lol:

[carfiend]

i did he didn't answer the door.

[jzilla]

bring a bee with a thread tied to it, He'll come out and play.

[shadow102]

not really sure on exactly what your setup looks like or how hydra works but how does it meter the incoming air? Are you still on a MAF setup?

[RotorNutFD3S]

Hydra meters with a MAP sensor, no MAF.

After your track day it was suggested your coils were dying. Do you have spark on all 4 cylinders?

[ben91]

I understand that hydra will show RPM even if synced with only 1 position sensor. Since it's set up for sequential, there's no way it could command fuel correctly without both sensors. Sounds like a sensor or coil pack.

[Doppelgänger]

Well...the numbers are in....compression numbers that is.

#1 125psi
#2 155psi
#3 55psi
#4 125psi

retest

#1 100psi
#2 165psi
#3 50psi
#4 127psi


Plans are underway to replace the motor.

[jester911]

You pretty much broke everything else at some point. You have to figure the motor would go too.

Sorry to hear it but I am sure it will be even stronger in its return.

[Bernie]

Dang... Good luck with the fix.

[Stealth97]

Ouch. Good luck man, but I say build it, rather than get another stocker.

[JMarsh]

sorry to hear that.

[Dr.Drew]

Dude, my condolences.

[RotorNutFD3S]

As I said last night, I'm sorry it died, but you've gotten some damn good performance out of that one. You were able to beat the heck out of it on the track, drive it cross country, and daily drive it too. Let's get that replacement in there so you're back on the road!

[wildfire0310]

Sorry about the the motor. Now don't pull an Eric and spend countless time and money on the motor then sell. :)

So the plan to put a built motor or just dropping in a replacement stocker??

[Doppelgänger]

Thanks guys :) I gots a warm fuzzy feeling reading those replies :D

As soon as I get the new engine in my possession I will call The Cavalry for a TKO installation.

The new engine will be all stock. I don't have the time/patience to build an engine and put it in. This is my only car so yeah.

[Stealth97]

Ouch man. Takes guts having a car that modified as your sole vehicle

[wildfire0310]

Thanks guys :) I gots a warm fuzzy feeling reading those replies :D

As soon as I get the new engine in my possession I will call The Cavalry for a TKO installation.

The new engine will be all stock. I don't have the time/patience to build an engine and put it in. This is my only car so yeah.


Supply the booze and pizza and I think a one day swap could be handled. Half the board got good pratices pulling Eric motor so many times :D

Also think now you have a spare block(hopefully) to build a beast motor in your free/off time

[Dr.Drew]

Just say when and I'll be there!

[jzilla]

i know where there is a certain msm motor....

:whistle:

[Jack-MX5ATLanta.com]

Well I know there are several msm motors on here but that's called theft. :lol:

Seriously though, I feel for you Mike, it sucks when your daily driver is out of action after putting so many hours into it. I hope you manage to get everything sorted and get it running in tip top condition as soon as possible.

It's also not as if we can't say that engine didn't live a well-driven life. Certainly seen some use!

Good luck

[jester911]

So just out of curiosity what are you going to drive while your car is down?

[MXwes]

We were wondering why you weren't at the AutoX today. Good luck with your car.

[MoD_Scotty]

Sucks man! Hope the replacement operation goes well!

[Doppelgänger]

So just out of curiosity what are you going to drive while your car is down?

I've had a couple of offers on loaners and I'm just trying to figure out which one will work for me and the owner the best...but I'm open for more options :lol: Luckily a loaner will only be driven to work and back (6 miles a day) and will get to park in a covered parking deck during the day.



It was suggested to me that maybe the head lifted/head studs got stretched. Sound about right given compression is low across the board. Oil and coolant are clean and not mixed...but the car didn't travel far after it had the issue so I doubt there was even enough time for anything to mix if that were the case. Guess we'll find out when the old motor comes out.

[4sevens.com]

Wow sorry to hear about this mike! Maybe you pushed it too hard recently at tgp? Good thing it didn't break down in alabama!

[amaff]

Boswell told me about this today @ the autox. Sorry you weren't able to make it out there. Next time you have a problem, make a few phone calls. WORST case, we get you a fun car to ride at the event (there was at least 1 seat open in my car this morning)

[theothersawyer]

Sorry to hear about this but I think Laurabeth already told you but I am always up for working on cars!

[matredd]

buuummmer. Well, I'm close by for the new motor install or anything else if you need.

[LagunaRoadster]

sucks! sorry to hear about the bad news man. Good luck with the rebuild!!

[tbone heller]

Did you do a cylinder leak-down test. Maybe it is a weak or broken valve spring that is causing your problem. You did say that it "broke" while downshifting at a high RPM. Apply some "shop air" to the low cylinder while the valves are closed & see if it comes out of the intake, tailpipe, or dipstick. Maybe things are not all so bad. Good luck.

[FE3tMX5]

^agreed - at least pull the cam cover and rotate the engine by hand so you can look at the action for each valve. These heads have kicked out shims before too- and that would do so well for compression results.

[Synthmob]

Sorry to hear about this one - I daily drive my Miata as well and if it went down, I'd be in a similar situation. Not fun at all. Hope you get it fixed soon.

:sadbanana:

[Otto]

I'm on vacation from work all week so if you need a helping hand at something let me know

[DecoyOctopus]

aww poor miata

[NA6R]

It was suggested to me that maybe the head lifted/head studs got stretched. Sound about right given compression is low across the board. Oil and coolant are clean and not mixed...but the car didn't travel far after it had the issue so I doubt there was even enough time for anything to mix if that were the case. Guess we'll find out when the old motor comes out.

I wonder if it went lean enough at the track day to damage, but not destroy a piston. Then driving it around killed it.

[MeFryRice]

I may be wrong but I believe is car is tuned on the rich side but maybe running a hotter plug may have been the culprit?!

[Doppelgänger]

Engine purchase has been secured :)

Our lovely and super friendly sponsor, MazMart...specifically Paul, has an engine for me that has 1,000 miles on it. I am so giddy to be getting a pretty much brand new engine!

[jester911]

Congrats Mike. That is cool news.

[RotorNutFD3S]

Congrats dude! One step closer to having it run again.

[Bernie]

Holy carp! How does an engine end up at a parts house with only 1000 miles on it?

[Doppelgänger]

Well you see...

I was over by a Mazda dealership back in 2003 when I saw this guy was about to test drive a Miata. I knew the route that they normall take so I went over to this sharp turn and oiled down the road. I then parked my car up the street and waited for them to come down the road. As soon as they did I pulled out right in front of them forcing them to make a sharp turn, hit the oil and fly off the road. It was all planned out because I knew the car would end up at MazMart and that in the future I'd need an engine. I also knew that if I had good timing, they'd have no time to get a good description of my car and I could dip out without having to worry about the cops finding me later....which also might help that I was in a rental car that was painted with water-based paint so I went home and washed it back to it's original color and returned it to the rental car depot.

That's how you find an engine with such low milage.

[Sawyer]

:lol: :lol: :lol:
I'm glad you decided to pick up that engine. I can't wait to see Hippo back on the road!

[matredd]

Hippo? You named it Hippo? That's awesome.

[MeFryRice]

Hippo? You named it Hippo? That's awesome.

:lol::lol::lol:

[JennB]

:whistle:

[Bernie]

HAHA, mike got pwnd by the girls :lol:

I did have the luck to buy a Mazdaspeed Protege with 4500 miles on the chassis and only 100 miles on the engine. Apparently the kid that bought it was juicing the car at the drag strip, blew the engine, then took it back to Trussville Mazda to be repaired under warranty. When they declined he let them repo it. Mazda let them replace the whole drivetrain and resell the car, and that is where I came in...